As nature intended

Chile’s potential as a producer of organic or biodynamic wines is unsurpassed. And a growing number of wineries are following the example of the astonishing Viñedos Organicos Emiliana

Do you want to know what Chile’s point of difference from every other wine-growing country on the planet should be? Its ability to make organic or biodynamic wine, that’s what.

Organic or biodynamic winemaking is never exactly easy. But in most parts of Chile (fog-filled Casablanca might be an exception) it’s about as easy as it’s ever going to be. There’s rain in the winter, but just about never in the summer; it’s warm and dry, but rarely steaming hot; and breezes from the sea or the mountains keep rot away. Oh, and there’s no phylloxera.

So, given all this, you might wonder why practically the entire country isn’t given over to making ‘green’ wines? The glib answer is, ‘You’d need to ask the Chileans.’ Though in fact there are signs that something of a revolution is taking place in this naturally cautious country. Most of the big companies already have either experiments or vineyards in the process of converting (it takes several years and requires authentication), while Santa Rita has just announced an ambitious plan to expand its organic work with Nativa from 84ha in 2009 to 500ha in 2016, spread across Colchagua, Limari and Maipo. There are also plans to put 30ha aside for a biodynamic icon wine in about five years’ time.

The current standard bearer, without any question, is Viñedos Organicos Emiliana, though Cono Sur runs it close. This inspiring operation shows what can be achieved in a relatively short space of time, provided there’s self-belief and a long-term view.

Close control

Located in Colchagua, the team at Emiliana started working with organic vineyards in 1997, and by 2000 had made their whole 500ha organic. With a further 200ha in transition, it’s reckoned to be the biggest organic vineyard in the world.

The animals that supply manure, the

hens that nibble at pests, the bees that

pollinate the vines all live on site

The concept is simple: anything that is used on the land is kept within the farm. So, the animals that supply manure, the hens that nibble at pests, the bees that pollinate the vines – all live on site. The idea, according to co-owner José Guilisasti, is to ‘close the cycle of nutrients – to make the farm an independent unit’.

This requires ‘habitat breaks’ – areas where birds or insects can live. The VOE team also grow herbs and plants to make up the homeopathic solutions that are part of the biodynamic treatmeant of the vines.

Indeed, the vineyard ‘laboratory’ is more like a medieval apothecary – a trestle table, some jars of powder, a few large tubs of herbs, a chart detailing the phases of the moon and a large poster showing dozens of types of insect.

It all looks great, of course. But does it go beyond providing a good story for journalists and nice pictures for the photographer? On the evidence of the tasting laid on for our sommeliers, the answer has to be ‘yes’. Some of the reds were a little tight still, but the whites in particular showed very well, with an attractive inherent balance to them.

‘What they’re doing here would really help me sell the wines,’ said an admiring Frederic Billet. ‘You link quality to the fact that it’s made by a man rather than a machine.’

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