BELOW £14

Impressive results, with much debate around the different flavours created by using non-champagne varietals.

80 Chapel Down Pinot Reserve 2004
70% Pinot Noir, 30% Pinot Blanc

Universally appreciated for its age, complexity and food-friendliness, talented winemaker Owen Elias mixes Pinot with one of the lesser known champagne grapes in his blend.

‘Great oxidation on the palate which has a bready, brioche, creamy texture and a dry clean finish.’ RdP

‘A nose of toasted nut and citrus. Well balanced, elegant and with a nice nutty finish.’ AB

‘Great complexity, with an appealing nose of lychees and aromatic fruits. Smooth and round.’ MR

£13.50, direct, 01580 763033

---

79 Ridgeview Bloomsbury 2007, Sussex
64% Chardonnay, 22% Pinot Noir, 14% Pinot Meunier

Depth, intensity and complexity propelled Ridgeview’s signature blend into second spot, with the wine’s food friendliness also being rated highly.

‘Spice, toast, mushroom and undergrowth aromas on the nose, with small red berries, blackberries
and violet. A ripe, dry palate, flinty minerality, poise and depth.’ OG

‘Nettle leaves, with almonds on both nose and palate. Good structure, some orange notes, but plenty of red berries.’ MR

£13.90, Enotria, 020 8961 4411*

---

76 Ridgeview Cavendish 2007, Sussex
41% Pinot Meunier, 34% Pinot Noir, 25% Chardonnay

Good apéritif credentials, with tasters voting for charcuterie, grilled fleshy fish – monkfish or swordfish, say – and sashimi.

‘A fine herbal palate with fennel, lime and citrus. A little bitter, but good minerality and length.’ JK

‘Little closed on the nose. Good oxidation on the palate, a little yeasty. Not great complexity, but beautifully made.’ RdP

£13.90, direct, 01444 241441; Laytons & Jeroboams, 020 7288 8880

---

76 Biddenden Gribble Bridge 2003, Kent
Reichensteiner, Pinot Noir, Scheurebe, Ortega

A more traditional sparkling blend for England, this was appreciated particularly because it wasn’t trying to ape its more famous cousins across the Channel.

‘Good evolution on the nose – showing dried fruit and crusty bread. Good structure with a clean finish and attractive bready, baked notes.’ RdP

‘Dark fruit with violets, spices and a complex ripeness. Intense and supple, this is clean, fresh and has depth.’ OG

£10.83 within 50 miles; £11.50 over 50 miles; direct, 01580 291726

---

74 Meopham Valley Sparkling Brut 2004, Kent
Pinot Noir, Chardonnay; organic

A panel divider, with not everyone appreciating this wine’s distinctive flavours. You decide.

‘Very intense rich nose, almost red berries, with hints of biscuits, toast and yeast. The palate is rich and complex.’ AB

‘Fruity and floral, with good bubbles and more complexity than most.’ MR

£13, Kent, central & SE London; elsewhere, enquire re delivery charges; direct, 01474 812727

---

74 Chapel Down Vintage Reserve Brut NV
Pinot Noir, Reichensteiner, Müller-Thurgau

Another panel splitter, but its richness got the thumbs-up on the food front.

‘Clean and flowery with hints of lime and white fruit. Good balance.’ AB

‘Good mouthfeel, ripeness and depth with fine acidity and a certain flintiness. Polished and complex.’ OG

£10.50, direct, 01580 763033

---

67 Denbies Whitedowns NV, Surrey
Seyval Blanc

‘Clean citrusy nose, mineral. Good acidity and elegance. An alternative
to prosecco as an apéritif or with prawn cocktail or tempura.’ AB

‘Creamy foam, juicy, fresh, white stoned fruit. Good texture and persistent finish. Fresh crab.’ JK

£9-£10, London & the SE, dependent on quantity; direct, 01306 734652

---

65 Davenport Vineyards, Limney Blanc de Blancs, 2005, Sussex
Reichensteiner; organic

‘Toast and mushroom, with undergrowth aromas, creaminess and depth; developing some secondary and tertiary aromas. Mineral with a long finish.’ OG

£11.84 (min. order 24), direct, 01892 852380; Vinceremos, 0113 244 0002; Vintage Roots, 0118 932 6566

---

65 Carr Taylor Brut NV
Reichensteiner, Schönburger

‘Quite a complex nose of white flowers, exotic hints, honey and stoned fruit. Poise and depth on the palate with similar notes and a flinty minerality.’ OG

£9.17, direct, 01424 752501

---

64 Yearlstone Vineyard, Vintage Brut 2006, Devon
Seyval Blanc; demi-sec

‘Lemony and citrusy nose with fresh peaches and green plums. Good acidity and freshness. The palate
should have been more intense.’ AB

£12.95, direct, 01884 855700

---

56 Three Choirs Vineyards, Classic Cuvée NV, Gloucestershire
Seyval Blanc, Pinot Noir

‘More pronounced on the palate than on the nose. Lime notes, refreshing but doesn’t last long enough.’ MR

£7.95, direct, 01531 890555

ABOVE £14

Sussex leads the way in this strong flight.

80 Nutbourne Vineyard, Nutty Brut 2006, West Sussex
Reichensteiner, Pinot Noir

Elegance won out over weight for this small near neighbour of Nyetimber. Made by Chapel Down for owners Bridget and restaurateur Peter Gladwin.

‘Rose petals, with a hint of sweetness and delicate herbs on the nose. Fresh, clean with good minerality. Pretty, mid-weight, good length and finish.’ JK

‘Great nose, complex, very elegant and refined, broad and flinty. Polished and silky on the palate with fine acidity.’ OG

£15.00, direct, 01798 813 554

---

78 Nyetimber Classic Cuvée 2003, Sussex
60% Chardonnay, 23% Pinot Noir, 17% Pinot Meunier

Born from the heat of 2003 this has the depth to match a variety of dishes
from Dover sole to roasted pumpkin.

‘Elegant white fruit with lots of fresh flowers on the nose. Sweet honey and toasted bread on the palate. Rich but not intrusive. Long aftertaste.’ AB

‘Almost a “comfort” fizz. Reminds me of a “seasonal” champagne.’ EoH

‘Lovely mid-palate, with an almost juicy vibrancy. Orange peel hints.’ JK

£19.91, Liberty Wines, 020 7720 5350; Ellis of Richmond, 020 8744 5550; Furniss Roe & Nichols, 020 8900 1949; see also www.nyetimber.com

---

77 Nyetimber Blanc de Blancs 2001, Sussex
Chardonnay

G20 leaders enjoyed the previous release (1998) at their London summit last April

‘Very complex, with floral, dark berries, some spice and great intensity. Sweet and sour notes, dark berries, great acidity and very long. Spicy food.’ OG

‘Hay, straw and mushrooms on the nose, very good minerality with fresh clean apricot and peach on the palate.’ JK

£22.21, stockists as above

---

76 Plumpton, The Dean NV, Sussex
Pinot Noir, Chardonnay

Good food potential for this fizz that comes from the UK’s wine college.

‘Fresh bread flavours and hints of mineral and chalk. Honey and lime on the palate. Good intensity and richness. Would match seafood risotto or lobster thermidor.’ AB

‘Toasted nuts on an intense nose. Great complexity, with toasted almonds, crusted bread, dry apricot and peach, and a clean dry finish. Foie gras, mushroom risotto, light game – lots of truffles!’ RdP

£14.15-£14.65, dependent on quantity, Sussex & SE; direct, 01273 890454

---

71 Ridgeview, Grosvenor Blanc de Blanc 2006, Sussex
Chardonnay

‘Floral, acacia flowers with an herbaceous character and oily finish. Mid to long finish. Interesting and refreshing.’ MR

‘Good levels of acidity with very fine bubbles. Nice citrus flavours on the tongue. Best as an apéritif.’ JF

£15.00, Enotria, 020 8961 4411*

---

69 Denbies Greenfields 2002, Surrey
Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, Chardonnay

‘Honeysuckle on the nose; lots of citrus punch, fresh vibrant fruit. Some complexity with good finish.’ JK

£14-£17, dependent on quantity, London & the SE; direct, 01306 734652

---

62 Bolney Wine Estate, Bookers Blanc de Blanc, 2006, Sussex
Chardonnay

Some felt this lacked both fruit and complexity. Maria Rodriguez disagreed.

‘Honey, acacia flowers with orange undertones, good minerality. Round and a long finish.’ MR

£16.34, direct, 01444 881575

ROSÉ

Some good results but more had been hoped for. Variable colour of wines in particular was disappointing.

76 Chapel Down Brut Rosé NV
Pinot Noir

The second flight-topper for Owen Elias, the clarity and quality of red fruits made it hard to decide between apéritif-status or partner-material for light red and white meats.

‘Very fresh, clean and elegant, with ripe strawberries and delicacy, complexity and fine acidity – superb!’ OG

‘This has good red cherry and strawberry notes on the palate.’ RdP

£13.50, direct, 01580 763033

---

76 Hush Heath Balfour Brut 2006, Kent
52% Pinot Noir, 44% Chardonnay, 4% Pinot Meunier

Richard Balfour-Lynn’s wine was the flight favourite for half of the panel, with price being the only factor working against it.

‘Very complex nose, with violet and orange blossom. Elegant, fresh, complex and multi-layered – very fine indeed.’ OG

‘Fine, good fruit, well balanced with pretty minerality and length.’ JK

£23.40, Bibendum, 020 7449 4054

---

74 Ridgeview Fitzrovia 2007, Sussex
46% Chardonnay, 32% Pinot Noir, 22% Pinot Meunier

Lack of mid-palate left this off top spot.

‘Forest floor and fruits on the nose. Red fruits with apple notes on the finish. Fresh, clean and dry.’ RdP

‘Refreshingly good acidity, this is different with some mint undertones. Try with lamb and mint or Indian veal and mint.’ MR

£15.00, Enotria, 020 8961 4411*

---

73 Meopham Valley, Sparkling Rosé 2005, Kent
Pinot Noir, Chardonnay; organic

‘Closed herbaceous nose, with pretty fresh strawberry and raspberry fruit on the palate. Good minerality.’ JK

‘Zingy and fresh with pomegranate acidity. Hints of honey and caramel.’ AB

£14.50, Kent, central & SE London; elsewhere, enquire re delivery charges; direct, 01474 812727

---

67 Plumpton, The Dean Blush NV, Sussex

‘Dry roses and mineral notes. Fresh, crispy and elegant, with red flowers at
the end. Try with quail and tagine.’ AB

£14.15-£14.65, dependent on quantity, Sussex & SE; direct, 01273 890454

---

66 Carr Taylor Rosé NV, Kent
Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier

‘Sherry in colour. Nice balance of fruit, acid and spice. Good with sherbets, sorbets and mousse-style sweets.’ JF

£13.75, direct, 01424 752501

---

66 Pebblebed Sparkling Rosé 2006, Devon
Seyval Blanc, Rondo

‘Nice bubbles and a good level of fruit, spice and acid. Very good for the bar.’ JF

£15.80, direct, 07814 788348

---

65 Denbies Sparkling Rosé 2006, Surrey
Pinot Noir

‘Hints of coconut and vanilla pod on nose, with bright red fruit on the palate. A good commercial rosé with a clean finish. Match with baked salmon.’ EoH

£13-£14, London & the SE, direct, 01306 734652

---

65 Biddenden Gribble Bridge Rosé 2005, Kent
Gamay, Pinot Noir

‘Lots of wild berries on the nose, with fresh crisp acidity, good balance and crunchy berries at the end. An ideal match with shellfish.’ AB

£10.83 within 50 miles; £11.50 over 50 miles; direct, 01580 291726

---

Top five for food

80 Chapel Down Pinot Reserve 2004, £13.50 This wine’s depth and autolytic character gives it huge versatility, from seafood and chicken to Emily O’Hare’s light and aromatic, ‘lemongrass, coconut milk and fusion food’ or Roberto della Pietra’s more earthy options: ‘foie gras, mushroom risotto and truffle dishes’. 79 Ridgeview Bloomsbury 2007, Sussex, £13.90* With its richness and depth of flavours, this had the panel firmly opting for an earthy main course – mushroom risotto, foie gras and truffles – while Michael Clark felt that quail and Dover sole meunière would be good and Oliver Gasselin was thinking oysters. 76 Hush Heath Balfour Brut Rosé 2006, Kent £23.40 Vitality and complexity gave this rosé great scope, from seafood risotto and plates of prosciutto to Andrea Briccarello’s octopus carpaccio with chorizo. 74 Chapel Down Vintage Reserve Brut NV, £10.50 Light but flavourful won the day here, with Jade Koch voting for scallops and moules marinieres, Emily O’Hare wanting pear, rocket and walnut salad, or a good goat’s cheese while Andrea Briccarello was after dressed crab. Roberto della Pietra felt it would stand up to grilled fish with a rich sauce. 73 Meopham Valley, Sparkling Rosé 2005, Kent, £14.50 The versatile rosé for foodies, Richard Burton was thinking of chicken dishes, Andrea Briccarello had schnitzel or stuffed squid with chorizo in mind, while James Franklin was contemplating sorbets and sherbets. St Georges Day & Annual UKVA Tasting: Friday 23 April English Wine Week: 29 May-6 June www.englishwineproducers.com

---

* Since our tasting took place, Enotria has taken on distribution of three of the four Ridgeview wines listed; please contact them for the new pricing.

---