Genever convention

Classic gin tasting

With both classic cocktails and the gin category experiencing a resurgence, conditions have been ideal for some older juniper spirits to make a return. An Imbibe panel revisited some of these classic styles. Clinton Cawood reports

The work of cocktail historians has lately helped to spark a resurgence of interest in old-school juniper spirits such as Old Tom and genever, precursors to the London Dry style which had in many cases fallen out of fashion, or even out of production altogether.

Genever, commonly accepted as the ancestor to London Dry, has consistently remained in production, but has been almost entirely unavailable outside of its native Netherlands for some time. At one point in the 1800s, however, this malt-heavy spirit was reportedly outselling English gins by four to one. Genever is produced in two key styles: oude, or ‘old’, and jonge, or ‘young’, classifications which refer not to the amount the spirit has been aged, but how it has been made. Oude-style genever has a high malt content, is made with a number of botanicals, and is often aged. Jonge genever is made in a lighter style, with more grain content.

Old Tom has its origins in England, and was reportedly born of necessity; spirits were often so badly produced that it was necessary to disguise these harsh flavours and impurities by adding sugar.

The growing interest in these styles, and the cocktails they were originally used to create (such as the Tom Collins), has resulted in a number of recent launches – we put some of these new products, as well as a number of the old ones, to the test.

the panel

Simon Rowe, The Bar at The Dorchester Alessandro Palazzi, Dukes Hotel Tim Oakley, The Establishment Joel Lawrence, St James’s Hotel and Club Alice Lascelles, Imbibe Clinton Cawood, Imbibe

HOW IT WORKS

A representative selection of old-style juniper spirits was selected, with no dry styles excluded. The majority of the spirits tasted are available from UK agents, but a small number without distribution in the UK were included, not only to add interest and perspective to the tasting, but because for some time this has been a category that has required creative sourcing on the part of bartenders. The majority of these spirits are also available from online retailers.

All of the spirits were tasted blind, with the lighter Old Toms tasted first, followed by the heavier genevers. Judges gave each spirit an overall score, with average scores out of 100 given here.

Panellists then selected one of the spirits in the line-up to use in creating a cocktail.

All prices quoted are RRPs for 70cl, unless otherwise stated.

GENEVER

81 Van Wees Zeer Oude

All three spirits submitted from the Van Wees distillery impressed judges, taking all of the top spots in this category. The Zeer Oude, made entirely from malt wine and aged in oak, took top spot. Judges commented on its primary malt characteristics, supported by citrus notes, as well as smoke, vanilla pod and pepper. ‘Soft and refined, but with a stealthy kick to it,’ AL concluded.

40% abv. £26.99. Amathus, 020 8808 4181

78 Roggenaer 15YO

The older of the two Roggenaers from Van Wees in this tasting, this rye genever combined malt and peat aromas, resulting in a complex spirit reminiscent of a ‘light Islay single malt’, according to JL. Judges also commented on toffee, caramel, fudge and vanilla notes, as well as wood, mushroom and mint.

40% abv. £38.85/50cl. Amathus, 020 8808 4181

75 Roggenaer

Described by the distillery as ‘an eau-de-vie of rye’. Like its older incarnation, this was also reminiscent of single malt Scotch, primarily characterised by malt aromas, as well as citrus, coconut, and sweet fruit notes. Spicy on the palate, TO described this as ‘well-rounded, with soft peppermint’, and commented on its off-dry finish.

40% abv. £26.22 Amathus, 020 8808 4181

‘There’s a lot of potential and

interest here for adventurous

bartenders’ Alice Lascelles

71 Bokma Oude

Bokma’s entry was complex, with honey, pepper and ripe apple aromas. Soft spice and sweetness on the palate, as well as lemon sponge. Judges were particularly impressed with the finish, which TO described as long, peppery and savoury.

35% abv. £31.99. Coe Vintners, 020 8551 4966

70 Zuidam Genever

Judges were primarily impressed by the roundness of this spirit. On the nose, malt and spice were accompanied by an aniseed characteristic. On the palate, citrus and peppery spice were predominant, as well as cereal and ginger cake, followed by a sweet finish.

40% abv. £22.46. Malcolm Cowen, 020 8965 1937

70 Bols Corenwyn

The first of two entries from Bols gained points for its malt, fruit and juniper characteristics, and was described as spicy and oily. On the downside, more than one judge commented on its medicinal characteristics.

30% abv. Maxxium Netherlands, info@bolscorenwyn.nl (no UK distribution)

69 Bols Genever

Possibly the most juniper-heavy genever in this tasting, this relatively new spirit from Bols was deemed by judges to be a complex one, with citrus and malt aromas. Preferred more by some judges than others, this was described as ‘a real story in a glass’ and ‘elegant’ by its proponents, who also liked its almond, pear and grape notes. A bit too forceful for some, though.

42% abv. £24.95. Maxxium UK, 01786 430500

66 Gin Xoriguer

Not actually a genever, this curiosity from Menorca just about held its own in this company. It was described by judges as rural and well rounded, with floral, citrus and fruity notes, a light nose and heavier mouthfeel with a hint of juniper.

38% abv. £19.53. Blue Island, 020 7704 5223

‘Gin and whisky are so far

apart, but these genevers bring

them together’ Joel Lawrence

57 Ketel 1 Jonge Ambachtelijke Graanjenever

Very restrained on the nose, with just a hint of spice and citrus. On the plus side, this was ‘not too fruity, with not as many botanicals, and slightly peaty’ according to JL. Its detractors described it as diluted, watery and weak.

35% abv. £20.99/100cl at The Whisky Exchange (no UK distribution)

OLD TOM

82 The Dorchester Old Tom

The panel’s preferred Old Tom, by a good margin. Exclusively created for The Dorchester by William Grant, this was universally praised for its softness and distinct mint, citrus and juniper notes. On the nose, AL described it as ‘very scented lemon sherbet’ and ‘uplifting’. A rounded sweetness on the palate was balanced well with peppery, juniper notes, as well as citrus and spice and a peppermint/eucalyptus finish.

40% abv. Exclusive to The Dorchester

64 Hayman’s Old Tom

While this was complex, with spiced oranges and citrus notes, as well as pepper, more than one judge commented on the abundance of botanicals. Sweetness on the palate was thought to be too high, although this contributed to a good mouthfeel and would probably make this more suitable for long drinks.

40% abv. £15. Love Drinks, 07799 387 052

60 Jensen’s Old Tom

Some judges liked its sweet and nutty characteristics, as well as citrus and juniper, while others called it medicinal and musty, and questioned its balance. The unifying notes were juniper and sweetness

43% abv. £21.99. Speciality Brands, 020 8838 9367

CONCLUSIONS

Although scores were given in each category, it often proved difficult to rate and compare these spirits with each other due to their immense variety.
Malt was the defining feature for most of these, eliciting breakfast cereal comparisons and parallels with single malt whisky.
The more modern, jonge style of genever proved less popular than the more characterful older style.
Comparing the genevers with contemporary dry gin styles was seldom useful – while many of these had noticeable juniper and citrus content, they were often too malty and rich to be reminiscent of gin at all.
These spirits were clearly best-suited to simpler, classic cocktails, which tend to be about bringing out the character of a key spirit.
Both the genevers and Old Toms were favoured for their ability to bring softness, richness and body to drinks.

Many thanks to St James’s Hotel and Club for hosting the tasting

how to mix and match it...

ESPRESS YOURSELF
Tim Oakley, The Establishment
‘Genever and coffee work well together. The Corenwyn adds a lovely richness and you still get the coffee coming through.’

Glass: Coupette
Method: Chill freshly made espresso. Shake all ingredients hard over ice and double strain
Garnish: Three coffee beans

50ml Bols Corenwyn
15ml coffee liqueur (illy if possible)
20ml chilled espresso shot

RHUBARB & CUSTARD
Tim Oakley, The Establishment
‘Zuidam’s zingy spicy notes blend well with the powerful rhubarb – an oude genever overpowers this drink.’

Glass: Coupette
Method: Shake genever and juice, double strain and float foam on top
Garnish: Grated nutmeg

50ml Zuidam Genever
25ml fresh rhubarb juice
Passion fruit and vanilla foam

NEGRONI NOBILE
Alessandro Palazzi, Dukes Hotel
‘The Old Tom cuts the edge of the Campari. It makes it a bit sweeter, and with the Lillet it’s much softer.’

Glass: Old fashioned
Method: Build, then float one teaspoon of griottine juice
Garnish: Orange slice, lemon peel, grinottine cherry

25ml Campari
25ml Old Tom gin
25ml Lillet Blanc

STORK N SPICE
Simon Rowe, The Bar at The Dorchester
‘The Briottet has a real Christmas nose. This combines with the malt nose on the gin, and the Noilly Ambre is the glue that ties it together.’

Glass: Coupette
Method: Stirred
Garnish: Thin strip of cinnamon stick

40ml Roggenaer ‘De Ooievaar’
20ml Briottet Pain D’Epices (Gingerbread)
20ml Noilly Ambre
4 dashes liquorice bitters
Large lemon twist

SMOKE ON THE DAM
Joel Lawrence, St James’s Hotel and Club
‘I wanted to create a drink that was like a not-so-offensive Toddy, minus the lemon.’

Glass: Martini
Method: Fill Boston glass with ice and add the honey. Stir like an old classic, then throw ice and fill with more in the same glass. Add spirits and stir 25 times each way.
Garnish: Orange zest, flamed

60ml Roggenaer 15 year old
30ml Belvedere vodka
10ml pouring honey

the experts' verdict

SIMON ROWE, The Bar at The Dorchester

Our introduction of The Dorchester Old Tom was part of a process – it was about classic styles, and it’s given us a talking point. Bartenders are always looking for something like that. I like the new Bols Genever – it’s well done. In genevers, the ‘oude’ version tends to take the edge off drinks.

ALESSANDRO PALAZZI, Dukes Hotel

We don’t stock any Old Tom, but we’re thinking about it. I talk to customers, and no one ever asks for it – there’s never been a demand, and I almost forgot about Old Tom. As bartenders, though, we tend to go back to the classics. The revival in gin is there, we sell more than before. Sometimes we sell more gin Martinis than vodka. These old styles are a bit like cachaça, in that at the moment it’s a bartender thing – not that they’ll ever be as big as cachaça.

TIM OAKLEY, The Establishment

When it comes to Old Tom, people are used to gins being dry, so having sweetness puts them off. We need to lead them by making cocktails. It’s the same with genevers, because of the maltiness. There have been some better quality releases of Old Tom, that are a bit more malty, rather than just sweetened gin. Hopefully this will spawn more releases in the older style – of course it’s difficult to know what the original style was.
As for genevers, you always want at least one. It works well in cocktails, like a classic Collins, but it’s a harder spirit to use than Old Tom.

JOEL LAWRENCE, St James’s Hotel and Club

Old Tom is a classic spirit. It’s about educating people, and this is done by making cocktails. I for one am over vodka. Our menu primarily consists of gin and rum, because that’s where all of this comes from. The gin and whisky categories are so far apart, but these genevers really bring them together.

ALICE LASCELLES, Imbibe

A fascinating tasting with a huge variety of styles. Comparisons to London Dry were unhelpful on the whole, though – these spirits were much better judged on their own terms. A lot of potential and interest here for adventurous bartenders, but I imagine widespread consumer interest is a long way off. Some great bottle designs though, which would surely spark people’s curiosity.

CLINTON CAWOOD, Imbibe

Although these are traditional spirits, there was an interesting mix of new and old products here. The latter seemed to fare better in most cases, usually offering more complexity. Malt was the most defining feature of these. Given their flavour profiles, it’s quite misleading to refer to these as gins. This category’s undoubtedly being driven by bartenders.

Editorial feature from Imbibe Magazine - March / April 2009