This was potentially an exciting line-up, as a good 50% of the brands were newbies launched in the past 12 months. But the five overall winners showed that the newcomers still had some work to do – Oxley and Sacred both fared very well on taste, but were let down by confusing packaging.

Instead it was old favourites such as Tanqueray No. Ten, Hendrick’s and Junipero – all in the top five last year – that won the day in a line-up that was big on quite sweet floral characters and lacking, some judges felt, in really great London Dry-style gins.

There was also some scepticism voiced as to whether some brands were using curious botanicals or esoteric/high-tech methods simply in order to justify high prices.

When it came to design, simple, elegant and honest seemed to be the key, with Sipsmith singled out as a great example for the new generation.

With many thanks to Shaker BarSchool for hosting the tasting

BEST BY TASTE

BEST BY DESIGN

ICE WINNER

Tanqueray No. Ten

Last year’s champion triumphed again, coming first for taste and third for packaging (a slight slip on 2008 thanks to the newcomers). Tanqueray No. Ten’s appealing palate of fresh grapefruit, blousy camomile and juniper structure had a balance and finesse that made it a big crowd-pleaser almost across the board – a slight candied sweetness was the only reservation for a couple of judges. Meanwhile the bottle design, with its marriage of boldness and elegance, was judged truly aspirational and one which will no doubt see T10 remain a back-bar fixture for years to come.

Diageo Reserve Brands, 0845 751 5101

ICE RUNNERS-UP

2nd Hendrick’s

The scores showed that, despite its quirky image, Hendrick’s is still a serious gin, with a sophisticated and unexpectedly subtle handling of floral and cucumber/melon notes that helped it slip under the radar largely unrecognised (not for the first time). And our judges couldn’t help but love the bottle design, despite its impracticality.

First Drinks, 02380 312000

3rd = Junipero

With its huge juniper hit and a powerful, lengthy mix of earthy toffee, citrus peel, pine and hot spice, Junipero was the Marmite of this gin tasting. While some found it too big – with surprisingly little on the nose – others loved its assertiveness and depth. And if the design was a little dusty, it still spelled class for most of the panel.

Coe Vintners, 020 8551 4966

3rd = Sipsmith

The only newcomer in the final line-up, Sipsmith was a resounding winner in the design stakes, with its simple bottle and beautiful label giving all the right artisanal cues. Its lively palate ticked a lot of London Dry boxes – the peppery/piney juniper characters were particularly admired – although some found the sweetness
threw it off balance.

Sipsmith, 020 8741 2034

5th Miller’s Westbourne Strength

Only one point off being in the top five for both categories, this gin matched a very individual palate bursting with fresh floral and herb notes from sweet watermelon, lemon, tangerine, lavender and apple to more crisp celery/lettuce and cucumber with an elegant, very individual bottle that was emphatically top end.

The Reformed Spirits Company, 020 7352 8697

Nick Wykes
IP Bartenders

‘I found the spectrum of styles this year generally quite narrow, as if there’s a formula for premium gin. I’d like to see gins at the top end being a bit bolder.’

Alice Lascelles
Imbibe

‘Compared to a year or two ago, I think there are now more new brands that are being made with genuine love and passion, rather than to simply cash in on a trend, and that’s good to see.’

Johan Ekelund
Match EC1

‘This tasting suggests there is a move away from a classic London Dry gin style at the high end of the market, and I think that’s a shame.’

Clinton Cawood
Imbibe

‘Lots of new gins, and they mostly lived up to expectations. I think there’s still unfulfilled potential in the category, though.’