In the shaker

what to try... how to mix... where to go... what to buy... creative Viagra for the bar professional

It’s trendy to dismiss vodka. But the detractors are missing a trick, says Marcis Dzelzainis

Mark Twain wrote that ‘principles have no real force except when one is well-fed.’ This reminded me of a rumour that some bars in New York have decided to stock only one brand of vodka, or in some cases, delist it entirely. As a statement it is certainly bold; it declares that vodka is not worthy of a place among the pantheon of ‘authentic’ cocktail spirits. It declares that the consumer must be shown the true way.

I admire dedication to the cause, but fear that in today’s economic climate it is ultimately flawed. True, vodka is a relative newcomer, affirming itself as late as the 1940s, but it has made up for this in sales – and it’s here to stay. Times are tough and good vodka is a high profit earner.

With a little imagination vodka does not have to be a clumsy vehicle for a popular purée or some new exotic fruit – there are other drinks that highlight its nuances, such as these ones.

BISON SOUR

Glass: Coupette
Garnish: Grated fresh cinnamon
Method: Combine all ingredients in shaker, dry shake (without the ice to froth the egg white), add ice and shake hard. Strain into a coupette.

50ml Zubrowka Bison Grass vodka
25ml sugar syrup (50:50)
25ml lemon juice
20ml egg white

Origin: Unknown, but I first tasted this drink at Milk & Honey in London in 2004

RED VESPER

Glass: Pony
Garnish: Orange twist
Method: Combine all the ingredients in shaker. Shake and strain into glass.

35ml Wyborowa
15ml Plymouth Sloe Gin
10ml Lillet rouge

Origin: Dre Masso

BLOODY MARY

Glass: Highball
Garnish: As desired with either a lemon wedge, celery stick or slice of cucumber
Method: Combine all ingredients in a shaker and gently roll so as to not over dilute but simply chill and mix, strain into a highball over fresh cubed ice.

50ml Finlandia
15ml lemon juice
15ml Worcester sauce
5ml fino sherry
Pinch celery salt
2 grinds black pepper
3 dashes red Tabasco
150ml tomato juice

Origin: Fernand Petiot at Harry’s Bar, Paris, in 1921 and adapted to preference

NINITCHKA

Glass: Coupette
Garnish: Lemon twist
Method: Combine all the ingredients in shaker. Shake and strain into glass.

40ml Wyborowa
20ml lemon juice
20ml crème de cacao

Origin: Adapted from Esquire Drink Book by Frederic A Birmingham (1956)

GYPSY

Glass: Pony
Garnish: Lemon twist (optional)
Method: Combine ingredients in mixing glass and stir over ice. Strain into glass.

60ml Finlandia
15ml Benedictine
2 dashes orange bitters

Origin: Two Guitars Bar, New York

1946

Glass: Small goblet
Garnish: Lemon twist rubbed around rim and dropped into drink
Method: Add all ingredients into a mixing glass and stir. Strain into glass.

50ml Siwucha
25ml Lillet Blanc
2 dashes Fernet Branca

Origin: Charles Vexenat

MIXING NOTES

One of the best ways to introduce a vodka consumer to cocktail culture is to do a taste test explaining the differences between rye, wheat, barley, and potato vodkas. Certainly never try and dissuade them from drinking vodka; they are a paying customer and you should treat their choice of spirit with the same attention as you would any other.
Be very careful with your measurements. Vodka is a delicate spirit and it is essential to highlight the difference in taste between brands.
Use fresh juice as much as possible. Carton juice can be of very good quality but does tend to be over-sweetened. Also use freshly squeezed lime and lemon juice as the oxidation of old juice is more apparent when using vodka.

LONG GONE LIBATIONS

Vintage Spirits and Forgotten Cocktails (revised 2009 edition)
by Ted Haigh

In the last few years we’ve been blessed with some seminal works, whether it be Gary Regan’s Joy of Mixology, or David Wondrich’s Imbibe!, never before has cocktail culture been so well documented and articulated. If you don’t already possess the first edition of Vintage Spirits and Forgotten Cocktails, I urge you to buy this one. True there are many more revered and wonderful tomes out there, but none have introduced me to so many obscure and forgotten libations in such a short breadth. Had it not been for Ted Haigh, it might have been years before I stumbled across or dared try such concoctions as the Delicious Sour or the Avenue. The beauty of this book lies in its uncanny ability to sort the wheat from the chaff, whilst providing cracking historical background and reference. This book is a must for any aficionado or professional bartender who likes unfussy, straightforward and tasty drinks.

Available from amazon.co.uk from £8.44

BAR BLING

For anybody with a little cash to spend and an interest in some nice kit to deck your bar out with, look no further. There’s some very nice Japanese barware, including some crystal cut mixing glasses that are most desirable (for any fans of the devil spoons I mentioned in the last article those too are available) and also some leftfield offerings from WMF, a German-based company with some stylish barware. You can also order some reprints from Mud Puddle books via the website at a very reasonable price. Highlights include The Artistry of Drinks by Frank Meier and Cocktails: How to Mix Them by Robert Vermiere. www.cocktailkingdom.com