In the shaker

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Marcis Dzelzainis expounds the delights of using wine in cocktails old and new

I recently had the pleasure of partaking in Plymouth Gin’s pilgrimage around London, hosted by the most estimable David Wondrich who, on our trip around various obscure landmarks, proposed that the cocktail originated in all but name from our capital. We started our trip in Southwark, south London, home to Stoughton’s bitters, and it was here, in an 18th-century tavern, the bitters were mixed with claret or French white wine (which had been fortified with brandy for export), water and sugar. As such, we have the components of a bittered sling or cocktail: spirit, bitters, sugar and water. However, it was the inclusion of wine in this proto-cocktail that inspired this article’s theme. Wine has always played an important part in the history of mixed drinks, be it Sauternes, vermouth or champagne. So here are a few drinks, some old and some new, where wine takes centre stage, or at least plays a supporting role.

Rhine Wine Cobbler

Garnish: A grape, orange slice, pineapple and straw
Method: Muddle fruit, add Riesling and sugar syrup, shake and strain into glass over cracked ice.

100ml Riesling
20ml sugar syrup (50:50)
3 grapes
2 orange slices
2 pineapple chunks

Adapted from: Bartender’s Manual by Harry Johnson (1882)

Sauternes Cup No.4

Method: Mix together in a cool jug; serve as cool as possible.

2 bottles Sauternes
1 bottle iced sparkling Muscat Mosel
Slice of cucumber
Juice of 4 oranges
Juice of 2 lemons (strained clear)
3 bottles iced soda water

Adapted from: Cooling Cups and Dainty Drinks by William Terrington (1869)

Regent’s Punch

Method: Mix with ice in a punch bowl.

1 bottle champagne
1 bottle hock
1 gill dry sherry
1 gill pale brandy
½ gill rum
1 gill lemon juice
½ gill curaçao
1 quart green tea
1 bottle seltzer water
Sugar to taste
Ice to the utmost

Adapted from: Cooling Cups and Dainty Drinks by William Terrington (1869)

New York Sour

Glass: Sours
Garnish: Lemon slice
Method: Combine rye, lemon juice, and gomme in shaker, shake hard and strain into glass. Float claret over top.

50ml Rittenhouse Rye
20ml lemon juice
20ml sugar syrup (50:50)
20ml claret

Origin: A 19th century recipe cited in Imbibe! by David Wondrich (2007)

The Prince of Wales Cocktail

Glass: Sours
Method: Muddle pineapple, add rye, bitters, maraschino and gomme. Shake with ice and strain into glass, top with champagne and garnish with lemon twist.

35ml Rittenhouse Rye
2 dashes Angostura bitters
2.5ml maraschino liqueur
5ml sugar syrup (50:50)
2 chunks of fresh pineapple
Top with brut champagne

Adapted from: a 1901 recipe cited in Imbibe! by David Wondrich (2007)

Adonis

Glass: Small Martini or Pony
Garnish: None
Method: Combine the sherry, sweet vermouth and orange bitters in a mixing glass and stir until cold, strain into glass.

35ml dry sherry (I suggest La Gitana Manzanilla)
35ml Martini Rosso
2 dashes orange bitters

Origin: The Savoy Cocktail Book by Harry Craddock (1930)

MIXING NOTES

Sauternes Cup: in place of the sparkling Muscat, you could also try prosecco or sweet sparkling Vouvray, with a little sugar.
Regent’s Punch: the inclusion of hock refers to German wine and is a corruption of the name of the town Hochheim, which is in the Rheingau wine region. As such, I suggest using an off-dry Gewürztraminer or Riesling.
New York Sour: a Shiraz can be used to equally good effect. To float or shake the wine is down to personal preference. Also a more modern twist would include egg white and be served on the rocks.
1 imperial gill = 142ml; 1 imperial quart = 1.1litres.

WINE-NOT

Cooling Cups and Dainty Drinks by William Terrington (1869)
Cooling Cups and Dainty Drinks is, in my opinion, the quintessential reference book on how drinks were mixed in 19th-century Britain. A glance at the index alone highlights the importance of wine during this period, the first chapter itself dedicated to wines and their regions. This serves as a pertinent reminder of the historical importance of wine in our trade, but also their necessity in modern circumstance. I’m very fond of this book, but I fear that in the wrong hands it could lead to disastrous results – the inclusion of whale vomit (ambergris) in certain recipes doesn’t appeal to my delicate constitution. But in the capable hands of one who is judicious enough to understand that tastes are culturally and historically defined, this book will reveal some real gems waiting to be polished and revived.
Download a free pdf at www.euvs.org

THE BONZER BAR SPOON

I call a spade a spade and a bar spoon a bar spoon; straight talking, that’s how I like things. Of late, I’ve noticed an influx of hellish devices that tamper with this simple and beautiful thing. Some look like Satan’s bar implements, about a foot long with a fork on the end – what do you need a fork for? You’re not going to eat with it, and it’s not hygienic, for starters. The Bonzer bar spoon does everything you require of a bar spoon: it can be used to measure relatively accurately (a heaped spoon is roughly equivalent to 5ml), it’s good for stirring, it can be used as a rudimentary muddler, its spiralled shank is perfect for layering, and if used properly, the base can open bottles. Enough said, spoons done. Next time I’ll be looking at silly strainers.
Widely available, priced from around £6.