Tavel is rosé – but not as most of your customers would know it. Our panel get to grips with one of the world’s most interesting and unusual wine appellations
The rosé-only AOC of Tavel is a unique one. Located as it is on the Rhône’s left bank,
this is a warm, Mediterranean region that produces distinctive rosés informed by a long history of winemaking rather than fleeting trends.
Wine in Tavel has a rich history, dating back to the Roman occupation of Gaul. By the 17th century, the region had an international following.
It gained its AOC classification in 1936, and the village’s cooperative cellar was built in 1939. This cellar is now responsible for about 45% of production in the region – five million bottles, 20% of which are exported – and accounts for 36 estates and individual cellars.
When Tavel was in high demand between the renaissance and the 19th century, there was significant interest in clairet, the Bordeaux style that lies between red and rosé. Winemakers in the area also came to realise that Tavel’s conditions were perfectly suited to this style of wine, and the decision was made to become the only AOC to specialise in rosé.
Within this specialisation, there is an unmistakeable focus on variety in the region. Not only do grape growers in Tavel have nine varieties to choose from – they’re required to make use of this diversity. Regulations prohibit any estate from being planted with more than 60% of any given grape.
Winemakers in Tavel primarily use Grenache as a base, with other red and white varietals such as Mourvèdre, Syrah, Clairette and Picpoul contributing to the decidedly individual character of the wines.
Grapes are picked when fully ripe, and free run juice and press juice are blended together. This, as well as up to 48 hours of cold maceration, contributes to the robust and distinctive character of Tavel.
In addition to their unmistakable deep colour, Tavel wines are known for their structure, which suggests a potential for food matching, as well as a degree of ageing.
The fruit characteristics in Tavel are generally thought to reach a peak after about two years, after which they begin to develop further.
This is an AOC that has always gone its own way, and in doing so has created a distinctive character of its own.
‘I was expecting the Tavels
to be easy to drink, without losing their identity, and while retaining terroir. I was happy with these – they’re good to drink, but still very elegant. They really have their own
character, unlike some New World rosés. I can see these Tavels going well with Spanish seafood and tapas.’
‘Even if you only take the
appearance of the wines into account, this is a region with its own distinctive personality. But this extends to flavour as well – these are some big, characterful rosés. There was
consistency to this selection, and the wines would definitely come into their own with food.’
‘I was expecting big, almost flabby
wines, but was presented with well-structured rosés with good acidity. A lot of producers are making dry wines and these are the ones Tavel will find as their main opponents; the region
needs to pull together to figure out a plan of attack – particularly since they’re a bit on the pricey side. And they should look at screwcap.’
Add your comment
Please sign in or register if you'd like to comment.