Med to measure

Med to measure

Frequently dismissed as a source of entry-level wine, the southern wine regions of both Italy and Spain have seen renewed interest recently. An Imbibe panel of judges was called upon to find out what these hot regions have to

There’s no lack of prestigious wines from either Spain or Italy, but these traditionally hail from the cooler, more northerly parts of both countries. Rumblings of higher prices and improved quality have begun to emerge from the long-neglected south, though, and this tasting not only served to evaluate the quality of the wines coming out of these regions, but also provided an insight into the styles and varietals that are a priority, both for producers and UK agents alike.

Submissions from Spain were dominated by red wines, primarily made from indigenous grapes, although some international varietals were also present.

Italy’s countless indigenous varietals proved to be more than enough for its southern producers, who used almost no international grapes in the submitted wines. The
below-£6 price bracket clearly remains an important one for Spain, accounting for over two-thirds of the wines in this tasting. In contrast, over half of Italy’s submissions were well above this price point.

How it works

Suppliers of wines from southern Italy and southern Spain were asked to submit wines in two price categories, and split by indigenous or international varietals. Fortified, sparkling and rosé wines were excluded. For the purposes of this tasting ‘south’ was interpreted as ‘south of Rome/Madrid’.

Each supplier was limited in the number of wines they could submit, introducing an element of self-censorship. Submissions were split at the £6 mark to allow for a distinction between the lower-priced offerings for which these regions are known and the more premium offerings that are increasingly becoming available.

Wines were tasted blind, with only price and country of origin known to the tasters. The results use a pure 100-point scale, with marks below 50 quite possible. Wines were marked as follows:

90-100 astounding

80-89 excellent

70-79 very good

60-69 good

THE PANEL

ITALY

Jan Konetzki, assistant head sommelier, Maze Grill, Alessandro Marchesan, group sommelier and wine buyer, Zuma, Louis Villard, consultant

SPAIN

Donald Edwards, sommelier, Le Bouchon Bordelais, Erica Laler, sommelier, Maze, Chris Losh, editor, Imbibe, Thierry Sauvanot, head sommelier, Bord’eaux

.SOUTHERN ITALY

WHITE

Below £6

With offerings from all over southern Italy, this flight included a number of great value white wines.

78 Produttori San Guiseppe, Verdeca, Masseria Torre Rossa 2007, Puglia

This unusual offering was unanimously praised by the panel, proving particularly interesting in terms of mouthfeel.

‘Floral and rich, with great balance between texture and acidity.’ AM

‘Honey/beeswax on the nose – rich, but with nice acidity.’ LV

£5.28, Hallgarten Druitt, 01582 406493

77 Argiolas, Nuragus Di Cagliari DOC, S’Elegas 2007, Sardiana (Ca), Sardinia

Described as having stonefruit, chalk and mineral characters.

‘Fresh apple, lemon and grass.’ JK

‘Nice spice, too.’ LV

£5.90, Eurowine, 0870 162 1420

75 Cantine Volpi, Era Inzolia 2007, Sicily

‘Apple, green apricot, with soft acidity.’ JK

‘Vibrant acidity and fruit character.’ AM

£4.29, Vinceremos, 0800 107 3086

60 Grillo Sicilia D’Istinto 2007, Calatrasi

‘Ripe apricots and vanilla on the nose, with a fruit-driven, rustic palate.’ JK

£5.51, Matthew Clark, 0870 600 0640

Also tasted: Mandrarossa Fiano 2007, Sicily; Calatrasi, Accademia del Sole Viognier 2007, Sicily

RED

Below £6

The below-£6 reds, while not quite as striking, proved to be of a consistently good quality, with Puglia and Sicily the stars of the show.

70 Il Meridione Negroamaro di Puglia 2006, Puglia

The top wine in this flight was also the cheapest – a bargain.

‘Spicy and juicy with round tannins.’ AM

‘Red fruit – strawberries – and dry and young on the palate.’ JK

£3.90, Boutinot, 0161 908 1300

68 Vigne e Vini, Le Mani 2005, IGT Negroamaro Salento, Puglia

‘Dark fruit, balsamic, strawberries.’ JK

‘Good easy palate.’ LV

£5.85, Great Western Wine, 01225 322800

65 Calatrasi, Accademia del Sole Nero d’Avola Shiraz 2006, Sicily

‘Rich, ripe flavours.’ LV

‘Red fruits and oriental spices.’ JK

£4.43, Wine Studio, 0845 085 8855

63 Bella Modella, Primitivo IGT Puglia 2007, Puglia

‘Juicy on the palate, with loads of blueberry and bramble fruit.’ JK

‘Black berry fruit and notes of cloves, with high tannins.’ AM

£5.22, Alliance Wine, 01505 506060

62 Cantine Barbera Volare Nero d’Avola 2005, Sicily

Polarising, but with attractive qualities.

‘Woody and spicy, with dark fruit.’ JK

£5.66, Justerini & Brooks, 020 7208 2500

60 Cantine Volpi, Era Nero d’Avola 2006, Sicily

Judges were particularly complimentary about the oak in this wine.

‘Toasty oak and blueberries.’ AM

‘Red cherries and strawberries, with a dry, soft palate and lots of tannins.’ JK

£4.29, Vinceremos, 0800 107 3086

Also tasted: Feudi di Sant’Eufania, Doricum Nero d’Avola 2007, Sicily; Casa Catelli, Primitivo del Salento 2004; Cantele, Salice Salentino Rosso Riserva 2004, Salento, Puglia; Cantele, Cenobio Zinfandel 2006, Puglia

WHITE

Above £6

At higher price points Italy definitely has something to offer in terms of whites, with some striking wines from Campania and Sicily.

85 Feudi di San Gregorio, Greco di Tufo DOCG 2007, Campania

The clear winner in this flight showed considerable complexity.

‘Nutty and floral flavours; crisp and fresh on the palate.’ AM

‘Yellow fruit, apple and a bit spiced.’ JK

£10.80, Enotria, 020 8963 4820

73 Argiolas, Vermentino Di Sardegna Doc Is Argiolas 2007, Sardiana (Ca), Sardinia

A real crowd-pleaser, with the judges commenting on its sour fruit characteristics and ‘lovely texture’.

‘This has a nice, elegant nose.’ LV

£8.00, Eurowine, 0870 162 1420

72 Di Giovanna, Grecanico 2006, IGT Sicily

Fruit was the defining characteristic of this Sicilian, with tasters identifying apricot, apple and tropical fruit.

‘Nice lime and stone fruit.’ LV

£6.50, Great Western Wine, 01225 322800

72 WI IND A6 3, Di Giovanna, G & K Grillo, 2007, IGT Sicily

Generally considered to be ‘a great wine’ (LV), though some argued that acidity may have been on the high side.

‘Spicy, peppery and crisp.’ AM

£7.85, Great Western Wine, 01225 322800

70 Terredora, Falanghina 2007, Campania

‘Crisp, with good acidity and texture.’ AM

‘Quite sour – this is a wine for food.’ LV

£8.80, Laytons, 020 7288 8888

68 AgroArgento, Calancunni Grillo 2006, Sicily

A divisive wine, that some thought was priced too high, though there were positive comments about its taste.

‘Shows green and yellow fruit, with good levels of acidity.’ JK

‘Floral, with lovely acidity and a bit of peardrop.’ AM

£8.10, Playford Ros, 01845 526777

65 Mastroberardino, Sannio Falanghina 2007, Campania

‘Apples and pears, with crisp acidity on the palate, but comes up a bit short on the finish’ AM

‘Fresh aromas of green fruit on the nose, followed by peaches and apricots on the palate.’ JK

£7.75, Berkmann, 020 7609 4711

62 Cantele, Alticelli IGT 2007, Salento, Puglia

‘Attractive smoky aromas on the nose, with herbal and green apple notes on the palate.’ JK

‘Nice minerality – this would be good with food.’ LV

£6.55, Armit Wines, 020 7908 0680

Also tasted: Pietra Tagliata, Grillo Bianco 2006, Sicily; Cataratto Terra di Ginestra 2007, Calatrasi

RED

Above £6

This flight proved to be the most extreme for Italy, in terms of style, score and price, with some spectacular wines more than making up for a few disappointments.

97 Tormaresca Famiglia Antinori, Torcicoda 2004, Puglia, Salento

Members of the panel commented on the positive volatile acidity of this Primitivo, which gave it a balsamic character.

‘Intense and rich, with juicy tannins.’ AM

‘Balsamic, fruity and juicy.’ JK

£9.40, Berkmann, 020 7609 4711

85 Az Ag Mocavero, Primitivo 2003, Puglia, Salento

Another panel-pleasing Puglian Primitivo

‘Dark mature fruit and rich balsamic notes on the nose, followed by sour cherries on the palate.’ JK

‘Spicy, rich and lovely on the finish.’ AM

£7.23, HBJ, 01473 232322

78 Az Ag Mocavero, Negroamaro 2005, Puglia, Salento

Mocavero proved to be a consistent performer, taking second and third place in this flight. The panelists remarked on this wine’s savoury, even leathery character, which combined well with
fruit characteristics.

‘Blueberries on the palate, with a bit of a savoury note.’ JK

£6.48, HBJ, 01473 232322

75 Planeta, Cerasuolo di Vittorio 2007, Sicily

A wine that drew mixed responses, from the judges but nevertheless managed to achieve an impressive score.

‘A fresh and vibrant wine, with lovely cherry notes.’ AM

£8.60, Enotria, 020 8963 4820

72 Santadi, Rocca Rubia 2005, Sardinia

‘Loads of oak – good tannic structure.’ LV

‘Juicy and balanced.’ AM

£6.53, Enotria, 020 8963 4820

70 Castello Monaci, Piluna Primitivo 2006, Puglia

‘Dark berries and spices.’ AM

‘Amazing fig notes on the nose and an equally good palate.’ LV

£6.55, Bibendum, 020 7722 5577

68 Vigne e Vini, Papale 2004, Primitivo di Manduria, Puglia

While this pleased some judges, others found it lacking in complexity.

‘A pungent nose, with prominent mushroom aromas, while the palate is sticky, but with good acidity to balance it out.’ LV

‘The palate shows dark jammy fruit, as well as some spice.’ JK

£7.20, Great Western Wine, 01225 322800

68 Cusumano, Sagana 2005, Palermo, Sicily

With its blackcurrant characteristics,and good tannins, this would serve well as a food wine.

‘Black, dark fruit flavours and some earthy notes as well.’ JK

£15.00, Eurowine, 0870 162 1420

67 Do Zenner Nero d’Avola 2005, Sicily

‘Herbal, balsamic and strawberry nose, with good tannins on the palate.’ JK

‘A full wine with loads of tannin.’ LV

£10.62, Justerini & Brooks, 020 7208 2500

63 Az Ag Mocavero, Salice Salentino 2005, Puglia, Salice Salentino

While this didn’t amaze any of the panel, it proved to be a solid enough entrant.

‘Okay fruit and good on the palate, but a bit of bitterness on the finish.’ LV

‘Cooked strawberries and a soft palate.’ JK

£6.48, HBJ, 01473 232322

60 AgroArgento, Carnivali Nero D’Avola 2005, Sicilia

‘Light and easy, with a nice kick of tannin on the finish.’ LV

‘Light fruit, lovely acidity but a bit short.’ AM

£7.10, Playford Ros, 01845 526777

Also tasted: Cantine Colosi, Nero d’Avola 2007, Sicily; Bisceglia, Aglianico Terre di Vulcano 2006, Basilicata; Az Ag Mocavero, Puteus Riserva 2003, Puglia, Salice Salentino; Feudo Montoni, Nero d’Avola 2006, Sicily; Duca di Castelmonte, Tripudium 2005, Sicily

Italy: panel comments

Jan Konetzki, Maze Grill

‘There were generally some good red wines below £6, for the money. In both the red and white wines there was always good acidity – I wasn’t expecting that to be the case. At higher prices there were good Mediterranean herbal notes and great fruit, although some wines were too confected. Some of the whites were on the flintier, chalkier side, with firm fruit, and weren’t blousy or over-oaked. I was positively surprised by the freshness at this price point – a lot were just over £6, and they delivered. Primitivo and Nero d’Avola are particularly good value.’

Alessandro Marchesan, Zuma

‘At lower prices there were two very distinct styles of wine. There was the clever, well-managed winemaking – those wines that kept their varietal character, with a long aftertaste – and that’s what we wanted. Then there was the over-the-top style, which was big and boring. In general, though, my house wine is always from Southern Spain or Southern Italy. Above £6, I expected the wines to be more confected, but was pleasantly surprised, and they were good value. Some of the reds were a bit simple and confected, but with the whites there was an element of minerality, with nutty, floral, crisp and long aftertastes.’

65 – average percentage score given

to Italian wines, as opposed to 47% for Spain

Louis Villard, consultant

‘I thought that, particularly in the lower price bracket, these wines were amazing value. I guess you have to compare these examples to the New World, and from one of those countries, at this level, the wines would be confected. I was happy with the below-£6 wines. Overall, I wasn’t expecting as good as we got – I was expecting funky, great value wine, dirty, with more brett. But that wasn’t the case. At higher prices they were great, with good minerality and great acidity – they weren’t flabby.’

SOUTHERN SPAIN

WHITE

Below £6

The first Spanish flight of the day inspired little confidence, with only two really interesting entrants.

68 Invencible, Vina Lastra Airen 2007, Valdepeñas

The acidity and fruit on this wine proved a hit with most of the panel.

‘Fresh, with mineral and stonefruit character, and a long finish.’ EL

‘Blackcurrant leaf and some richer characters behind that.’ CL

£4.89, Heritage Wine, 0844 871 0040

62 Ademas Viura Sauvignon Blanc 2007, Tierra de Castilla

The range of descriptors this elicited from the panel suggests that this was complex and, as some judges pointed out, quite unusual.

‘A very interesting wine, with apples and mint, and a slight bit of bubblegum.’ DE

‘Banana and pear drops as well as bitter almonds.’ EL

£4.71, Hallgarten Druitt, 01582 406493

Also tasted: Bodegas J A Megia y Hijos, Corcovo Blanco Crianza 2004, La Mancha, Valdepeñas; Bodegas Condesa de Leganza, Finca Los Trenzones Sauvignon Blanc 2007, La Mancha; San Isidro, Clearly Organic Airen 2007, La Mancha, Tierra de Castilla; Condessa de Leganza Viura 2007, La Mancha; Bodegas J A Megia y Hijos, Corcovo Blanco Airen 2007, La Mancha, Valdepeñas; Freixenet Ash Tree Estate Chardonnay Macabeo 2007, Castilla-La Mancha; Jesus del Perdon, Eden Collection Spanish White 2007, La Mancha

RED INDIGENOUS

Below £6

With 24 entries, this was by far the biggest flight of the tasting and, thanks to a truly spectacular array of winemaking faults and poorly made wines, it was the biggest disappointment as well, with only two wines achieving a score over 60.

69 Bodegas JA Megia y Hijos, Farache Tempranillo 2006, La Mancha, Valdepeñas

Judges praised this for its fruit flavours, which were complemented by some additional complexity.

‘Bright fruit with some attractive light sweet spice and herbs behind. Attractive, characterful and well put together.’ CL

£4.16, A&A, 01483 274666

60 Juan Gil Monastrell 2007, Jumilla

Splitting the panel in two, this wine’s detractors were unconvinced by the mushroom and banana characteristics. On the other hand, its dark, spicy intensity and complexity gained it some followers.

‘Fresh red fruit, with some minerality too. A good food wine, especially for the price.’ CL

£4.80, Boutinot, 0161 908 1300

Also tasted: Coop. del Vino de Yecla ‘La Purisima’, Estio Reserva 2001, Yecla, Murcia; Fernando Castro SL, Finca los Altos Gran Reserva 2000, La Mancha, Valdepenas; Casa de la Ermita Joven 2006, Jumilla; San Isidro, Clearly Organic Tempranillo 2007, La Mancha, Tierra de Castilla; Castizo de Ricardo Benito, Tinto 2007, Madrid; Bodegas Navarro Lopez, Castillo San Carlos Gran Reserva 2000, Valdepeñas; Eguren Epico Tempranillo 2006, La Mancha; Bodegas Piqueras, Marius Reserva 2004 Almansa; Felix Solis, Arium Crianza 2004, Valdepeñas, Castilla La Mancha; Felix Solis, Arium Reserva 2003, Valdepeñas, Castilla La Mancha; Condesa de Leganza Reserva 1998, La Mancha; Dominio del Arenal Cerrado del Espino 2007, Utiel Requena, Valencia; Casa del Canto Joven 2007, Yecla, La Mancha; Arium Reserva Albali 2003, Valdepeñas; Invencible, Vina Lastra Tempranillo 2007, Valdepenas; Condesa de Leganza Crianza 2003, La Mancha; Bodegas Fontana, Fontal Tempranillo Roble 2007, La Mancha, Castilla-La Mancha; Bodegas Olivares, Altos de la Hoya do Jumilla 2006, Jumilla; Bodegas Muños, Centelleo Tempranillo 2006, La Mancha; Bodegas Fontana, Misterio de Fontana Roble 2007, Uclés, Castilla-La Mancha; Invencible, Vina Lastra Tempranillo 2007, Valdepeñas

RED INTERNATIONAL

Below £6

The international varietals didn’t fare much better at this price point, despite a number of entries.

65 Casa delle Valle, Hacienda Shiraz 2005, Castilla la Mancha

‘Vanilla and strawberry flavours, this is juicy with nice body.’ DE

‘Soft black fruit with some spicy oak – ripe and fun.’ CL

£5.66, Hallgarten Druitt, 01582 406 493

Also tasted: Omblancas Delain Monastrell 2005, Murcia, Jumilla; San Isidro, Clearly Organic Syrah Cabernet 2005, La Mancha, Tierra de Castilla; Bodegas Rosario, Lorca Monastrell
Shiraz 2005, Bullas, Murcia; Bodegas Condesa de Leganza, Finca Los Trenzones Shiraz 2006, La Mancha; Principe Alfonso Reserva Privada 2003, Vino de Mesa de Andalucia; Freixenet Ash Tree Estate Shiraz Monastrell 2007, Castilla-La Mancha.

WHITE

Above £6

There were only two entries for this flight, which suggests something about the importance placed on higher-priced southern Spanish white by UK agents.

76 Ordonez & Co, Botani 2007, Sierras de Malaga

This floral offering from Sierras de Malaga drew universal praise from the panel.

‘Fresh, with a floral, Muscat aroma.’ TS

‘Bright floral Muscat nose, with sweet apple and lime flavours and a lovely creamy palate.’ DE

£10.09, Indigo Wine, 020 7733 8391

Also tasted: Bodegas Ricardo Benito, Tapon de Oro Blanco 2007, Vinos de Madrid, Central

RED INDIGENOUS

Above £6

There were a few reds in this higher price bracket that defended Southern Spain’s winemaking reputation – including one that was priced significantly north of £6.

88 Bodegas Ricardo Benito, Divo 2002, Vinos de Madrid, Central

It’s not a typo – that really is £110. This wine impressed judges, however, who had only good things to say.

‘Heather, tobacco, dark berries and cherries with vanilla hints.’ EL

‘Liquorice, dark fruit and sweet red fruit. Oak heavy, with an excellent, long finish and well-managed smooth tannins.’ DE

‘Fragrant and complex, with cherries, almonds and some minerality. Silky, elegant and powerful – this wine has been very well put together.’ CL

£110, Morgenrot, 0845 070 4310

60 Huerta de Albala, Taberner 2006, Arcos de la Frontera

Concentrated and bold, but a surfeit of oak brought its score down.

‘Big dark flavours, with quite good concentration, but rather too oaky, which brings a slight bitterness to it.’ CL

£11.90, Boutinot, 0161 908 1300

Also tasted: Familia Martinez Bujanda, Finca Antigua Garnacha 2006, La Mancha; San Marcos, Heredad De Barros 2004, Extremadura, Ribera Del Guadiana; Familia Martinez Bujanda, Finca Antigua Tempranillo 2006, La Mancha; Rafael Cambra, Uno 2004, Valencia, Levante; Omblancas Denuno Monastrell 2005, Murcia, Jumilla

RED INTERNATIONAL

Above £6

Southern Spain just about came into its own in this flight with some top scorers, but there were still a number that didn’t make the cut.

84 Vinedos y Bodegas Principe Alfonso de Hohenlohe, Andalus

Petit Verdot 2003, Vino de Mesa de Andalucia

This French-style wine was a distinctive and recognisable example of Petit Verdot, described as ‘elegant’ and identified as a good food wine.

‘Cherry and chocolate flavours; a fresh and well structured wine.’ TS

‘Nice cedarwood and red fruit – quite a structured wine.’ DE

£11.05, Bacchanalia, 0207 429 3271

80 Bodegas Ricardo Benito, Asido 2003, Vinos de Madrid, Central

Benito’s (more modestly priced) offerings in this flight continued to do Madrid proud. This blend had an appealing botrytised character, bringing out
apricot and peach aromas.

‘Black cherry fruit, almond, shortbread. Very ripe and sweet.’ CL

£12.99, Morgenrot, 0845 070 4310

64 Bodegas Ricardo Benito, Duán, 2004, Vinos de Madrid, Central

‘Slightly waxy, with sweet strawberries, fresh acidity and nice tannins.’ DE

‘Vanilla and minerality on the nose, with pronounced smoke and confit fruit.’ TS

‘Baked strawberry biscuits. Slightly hot on the finish, but not bad for the money.’ CL

£6.99, Morgenrot, 0845 070 4310

Also tasted: Valdepusa Summa Varietalis 2004, Montes de Toledo; Finca Coronado 2004, Campo de Calatrava, Castilla L Mancha; Bodegas Jimenez Landi, Sotorrondero 2006, Mentrida; Bodegas Los Frailes, Trilogia (Organic) 2005, Valencia; Vina al Lado de la Casa 2004, Yecla, Levante

Prices quoted are trade, single bottle ex-VAT prices unless otherwise stated.

Many thanks to the team at The Atlas for hosting the tasting.

Spain: panel comments

Donald Edwards, Le Bouchon Bordelais

‘I hoped to see bright, simple, juicy wines, but there was a real variety of faults. The ones I liked did have bright, juicy fruit, with nice character. There were a few white wines at the lower price points that did make me think, “I’ll have some of that”, but in the reds I’d probably want to look at some sub-£6 wines from other countries instead. Over £6, I scored the international varietals higher than the indigenous ones. I was expecting juicy Tempranillo, Grenache, Mourvèdre… there’s obvious potential, though.’

Erica Laler, Maze

‘For me, the good wines were all about balance, and had good, clean fruit. For the others, it seemed that there was a lack of winemaking knowledge, a lack of minerality and not much depth. My favourites were in the traditional Spanish style. Below £6 I wasn’t expecting very much, but expected more above that price point. There may be a lack of knowledge, but they’re still on the way.

31% – number of Spanish submissions

above £6, as opposed to 62% for Italy

Chris Losh, Imbibe

‘Stylistically, the wines seemed either good or appalling – there was the comfortable, distinctive old-school Spanish style, which is not fashionable, but it’s at least competent. But when there was a modern approach, it was car-crash winemaking – they varied from “OK” to “Oh no”! Oddly, the whites were a bit more reliable than the reds. I was expecting a lot more good, simple wine from this tasting, maybe with the odd star. A few wines showed what this place can do, but they’re a long way from succeeding. Overall it was a real disappointment.’

Thierry Sauvanot, Bord’eaux

‘I really wanted to rediscover this particular region, where I think there is good value to be had. But there’s one major problem – everything comes down to money, and I think there’s more money with the Italians, for example. Winemakers need to find their own wine, and their own way, but there’s so much competition that they seem to want to go straight from A to Z without the steps in between. This was the case on both sides, in the international and indigenous varietals.’

All wines available through Eurowines.
For more info contact enquiries@eurowines.co.uk or 0870 162 1420

Editorial feature from Imbibe Magazine - November / December 2008