Bordeaux blends are the trophy wines in almost every New World region. But do these wines move beyond ripe fruit to show a sense of place and are they worth the money?
Clinton Cawood joins a panel of eager sommeliers to find out
Call it imitation or call it flattery, but Bordeaux blends are produced throughout the New World, and they’re usually the flagship red of the winery that produces them. Through variation in
factors like climate or technique, each region’s Bordeaux blend can vary dramatically, though. While some can be distinctly New World in style, they aren’t always, and they’re usually priced in a
way that puts them in direct competition with Bordeaux on a restaurant wine list.
In order to evaluate whether these matched up to the Bordeaux that they’re inspired by, or deserve their place on wine lists in their own right, we called in a number of these top-end blends of
Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Malbec, priced between £20 and £50 ex-VAT (the highest submitted was £54.62).
Based on the recommendations of the generic trade bodies for each producing country, agents were asked to submit wines. These were flighted by
country, in ascending order of price and tasted blind by a panel of sommeliers.
To add a little spice to proceedings, we hid a couple of control Bordeaux within these flights as well to see whether our tasters would spot them,
and how they would score. Wines were scored out of 20, using the full scale, resulting in an average percentage score for each wine. Only those with a score above 60% are listed
here.
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ARGENTINA
A strong showing from Argentina, with good scores overall. The majority of these were big, powerful wines made to be served with red meat.
83 Magdalena 2005, Pascual
Toso
The highest scoring wine of the tasting, panellists were universally impressed by the concentration and richness of this Argentinian, while commenting on its subtlety too. Flavours such as
‘liquorice, leather, tobacco leaf and dry red blossoms’, according to LB, were lifted by good acidity. As OM put it: ‘A very good wine with enormous potential – still in a juvenile state.’
£48.81, Stratford’s, 01628 643510
78 Alto 2005, Alta Vista
‘Rich, spicy and masculine on the palate. This needs lots of meat!’ thought AB. LB felt this was still quite young, with good ageing potential.
£27.08, Cockburn & Campbell, 01234 279241
77 Finca Perdriel Single Vineyard 2005,
Bodegas Norton
‘Notes of tobacco and jammy fruit, with sweet tannins,’ said MH. ‘Coconut shavings, liquorice and blackcurrant – a fleshy and opulent wine,’ added OM.
£23.88, Berkmann, 020 7670 0972
75 RJ Distinto 2004
OM thought this had ‘lots of oak, with intense caramel and butterscotch aromas, and hints of exotic wood. Elegant and well-made.’ CC described it as having ‘liquorice, juicy red fruit and good
tannin, with a finish that’s vibrant and perfumed.’
£23.16, Las Bodegas Limited, 01435 874442
74 Quimera 2007, Achával
Ferrer
‘Soft, subtle plum and damson notes. Integrated acidity, elegant tannins – very quaffable,’ said NT. For MH, this had attractive plum and sweet cherry flavours, and was ‘delicate, with fine tannins
and
a velvety evolving finish.’
£21.11, Corney & Barrow, 020 7265 2530
74 Palo Domingo 2003, Domingo
Hermanos
‘Minty and mineral at first, with smoky fruit underneath... this is intense, yet elegant and well-defined,’ said AB. ‘Violet, dark cherry and plums, with well-integrated tannin,’ added KM.
£29, Hispa Merchants, 020 8740 4556
72 Nicolas Catena Zapata
2005
NT found ‘confected raspberries, cherries and vanilla, but also earthy and meaty notes.’ According to LB, it had ‘a fascinating palate, rich with very good tannins, good acidity and a long finish
of liquorice.’
£37.91, Bibendum, 020 7722 5577
71 Finca Pedregal Single Vineyard 2005,
Pascual Toso
For some, this lacked both structure and tannin, but for other panellists this resulted in an easy-drinking wine. NT described it as ‘fruit-driven, with blackberries, cherries and vanilla, with
hints of cardamom and undernotes of fennel.’
£28.81, Stratfords, 01628 643 510
69 Trapiche Iscay 2006
OM thought that, compared to some of the other wines in this flight, this was ‘less obvious, and more delicate in style, with a feminine side’. AB described this as ‘elegant yet robust, with a
crunchy blackberry and cherry character’.
£23.23, Fells, 01442 870900
AUSTRALIA
This flight won most tasters over, with the Australians generally showing some restraint and elegance, with purity of fruit.
79 Cyril Henschke Eden Valley Cabernet
Sauvignon 2004
NT was a fan of the ‘freshly-picked berries, cherries and redcurrants, with underlying peppers and cinnamon on the palate’. While MH was taken with a ‘seductive, cooked-raspberry nose and a deep,
attractive palate that showed lovely concentration’.
£39.23, Enotria, 020 8961 4411
70 Katnook Odyssey 2004
‘Quite shy, with prunes and raspberry aromas on the nose, and a decent minty character. A well-structured wine, with an easy-drinking style,’ commented MH. On the finish, according to AB, there
were ‘notes of chocolate, caramel and cinnamon’.
£28.37, Bibendum, 020 7722 5577
68 Vasse Felix Heytesbury 2005, Margaret
River
For MH, this had ‘concentrated fruit, a rich palate, and superb tannins’. NT described it as ‘herbal, with chewy brambles, cherries and blackberries on the palate’.
£23.42, Negociants, 01582 462859
66 Cullen Diana Madeline
2007
‘Persistent, ripe fruit, and good integration of tannin,’ commented KM. NT also identified ‘cooked vanilla pods, red cherries and perfume’.
£29.55, Liberty, 020 7720 5350
66 Parker Estate First Growth
2004
NT simply described this as ‘perfumed and floral’, while AB liked the ‘well-balanced nose of spice and dark plum, and good acidity and freshness’.
£25.85, Enotria, 020 8961 4411
65 Petaluma Coonawarra
2005
For KM, this had ‘sweet fleshy fruit to start – cassis and blueberry’. OM further identified ‘forest floor, leather, mushroom, cedar, gingerbread, plum and black truffle’.
£20, Bibendum, 020 7722 5577
65 Yarra Yering Dry Red No 1
2006
‘Brambles, pepper and spice – many secondary characteristics,’ thought NT. For AB, this was more evocative of ‘farmyard, with juicy berries... wild game and pepper.’
£28.95, Fields, Morris & Verdin, 020 7819 0360
CHILE
The panel was no less enamoured with Chile, but this flight offered something altogether different,
with vegetal, spicy and smoky characters dominating.
75 Don Melchor 2006
Widely praised by the panel for its balance and complexity, with plenty of fruit, but also vegetal, menthol, leather and tobacco notes all mentioned. For AB, this had ‘meaty notes at the back, with
fresh blueberry crunchy fruit’. NT thought this had ‘lovely acidity and elegant tannins – lively and refreshing’.
£23.83, Concha Y Toro UK, 01865 873713
74 Triple C 2005, Santa
Rita
Lifted, with ripe, red fruit – what AB identified as ‘cranberry, pomegranate and redcurrant character on the palate’. MH went on to summarise this wine as ‘full-bodied and muscular, but with a
gentle texture, and lots of depth’.
£20, Claro Group Wineries,available exclusively through Berkmann, 020 7670 0972
73 Errazuriz Don Maximiano Founder’s
Reserve 2006
‘Deep fragrance with molasses and mineral notes – well-structured, with good focused fruit,’ said MH. For OM, this was ‘expressive but not exuberant, with restraint despite lots of oak, and a
herbal character’.
£23.89, Hatch Mansfield, available exclusively from Matthew Clark, 0870 600 0640
73 Cousiño-Macul Lota
2005
‘Blackcurrant bud and pleasant cooked jammy fruit. Lovely texture,’ according to MH. ‘Peppery and mineral notes on the palate, and nice complexity with hints of smoky wood,’ added AB.
£16.66, Pol Roger, 01432 262800
69 Altair 2004
On the nose, this had ‘herby, earthy, stewed fruits of damson, marinated cherries, and a lively intensity,’ said NT. For LB, this had a ‘fascinating palate – balanced, with ripe tannins’.
£26.04, Boutinot, 0161 908 1300
63 Viu Manent Viu 1 2007
For OM, this was an example of ‘less use of technology, and more terroir-driven, with minerality and a flinty character.’ AB also identified mineral characteristics, and thought this was ‘a bit shy
on the
fruit, with a peppery palate’.
£32.83, Les Caves de Pyrène, 01483 538820
NEW ZEALAND
The panel was far more divided on this selection from New Zealand, which had its gems but failed to impress overall.
68 Alpha Domus AD The Aviator 2002,
Hawkes Bay
‘Tobacco and fur on the nose, with quite a complex palate. This is feminine and refined,’ said MH. ‘Earthy, gamey, with green pepper and a touch of balsamic,’ added AB.
£20.65, McKinley Vintners, 020 7928 7300
67 Esk Valley Terraces
2006
‘Ripe berry, leather, vanilla and liquorice – rich, smooth with ripe tannins’, commented LB. For CC, this was ‘distinctive, with a peppery, savoury character’.
£38.57, Hatch Mansfield, 01344 871 800
64 TOM 2002, Tom McDonald
‘Lots of black fruit and nice vanilla,’ said MH. ‘Smoky and mineral with minty flavours and a meaty palate supported by ripe crunchy berries,’ according to AB.
RRP £29.99, Pernod Ricard, 0800 3765550
60 Te Mata Coleraine 2007
AB described this as having ‘quite intense rich pomegranate’, while CC thought this ‘full and ripe, with lots of black fruit, and likely to improve with age.’
£23.25, Seckford Agencies, available from Lea & Sandeman, 020 7244 0522
SOUTH AFRICA
There were fewer submissions from the Cape than expected, but those that made it didn’t let the side down, exhibiting what for some of the tasters was a real
sense of place.
70 Frans K Smit 2004,
Spier
‘An intense palate, but elegant and well made,’ thought MH. OM also noticed notes of ‘tar, liquorice, mild spices and herbs. This is a wine that should work well with food.’ AB considered this to
be ‘serious and complex’.
£43.92, PLB, 01342 318 282
70 MR De Compostela 2006, Raats Family
Wines
‘Ripe, extracted, with hints of bell pepper, cocoa beans, smoke and tea leaves – a pleasant wine with identity,’ said OM. For NT, this had ‘baked prunes, damson and spicy perfume’ on the palate.
£25.99, Alliance, 01505 506060
70 Ernie Els 2004
Coming in at less than a percentage point below the other two SA entries, this was, according to MH, ‘mineral and attractive, with a sense of SA terroir.’ AB added: ‘A complex, spicy nose, with
clean, intense ripe plum and cherry flavours, nice firm tannins and fresh acidity.’
£32.55, Seckford Agencies, available from Lea & Sandeman, 020 7244 0522
UNITED STATES
A good showing from California and Washington State, noted for both intensity and elegance. Interestingly, these placed in reverse price order, indicating a
real relationship between quality and price.
81 Rubicon 2004, Napa Valley,
California
Panellists praised this wine, but commented on what might have been too much alcohol. ‘Ripe, rich and generous, with abundant tannins,’ said OM. For NT, it was characterised by ‘lovely fresh fruit,
baked vanilla soft notes of smokiness’.
£54.62, Mentzendorff, 020 7840 3600
74 L’Ecole No.41 Apogee Bordeaux Blend
2005, Pepper Bridge Vineyard, Walla Walla Valley, Washington State
For AB, this was ‘fine and very French, with elegance and finesse on the nose, silky tannins and a spicy finish.’ OM described it as ‘a serious wine... aristocratic. It’ll go a long way.’
£32, Wine Treasury, 020 7793 9999
70 Duckhorn Cabernet Sauvignon 2006,
California
‘A mix of dark berries and spice, with a lovely freshness on the palate, fine tannins and clean fruit character. Well balanced and elegant,’ said AB. For NT, ‘A fruity and concentrated wine, with
hints of minerality.’
£31, Wine Treasury, 020 7793 9999
68 Sorella 2006, Andrew Will,
Washington
‘Raisin, prune and baked morello cherries on the palate,’ according to NT. For AB it was ‘intense and concentrated, with lots of finesse’. MH put it simply: ‘A great wine. Everything works.’
£27.90, Fields, Morris & Verdin, 020 7819 0360
66 Cain Concept The Benchland 2004,
California
‘Intense nose, mineral and well balanced. Sweet cherry and blackberry character – rich but elegant,’ said AB. For OM, what made this wine stand out was ‘dark, ripe fruit, with Asian spices’.
£26.60, Justerini & Brooks, 020 7208 2500
Also tasted: Robert Mondavi Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2007, California
- While these wines are inspired by the Old World, they are, overall, distinctly New World interpretations of the traditional styles.
- In addition, each country has a distinctive take on the Bordeaux blend. Each country’s flight had a personality of its own.
- While some prices were questioned by the panel, on balance there were more wines that panellists thought justified their price points.
- Tasters thought that these New World Bordeaux blends deserve to be listed alongside traditional Bordeaux and not necessarily in place of it.
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Many thanks to Baltic restaurant for hosting the tasting. Baltic, 74 Blackfriars Road, London SE1 8HA.
Vin-cognito
To keep things fair, a couple Bordeaux wines were included in the tasting as silent representatives of this blend’s home turf.
They lay undercover, one within the New Zealand flight and one among the South Africans, waiting to be discovered by our panellists. And while the
panel knew that they had been included, none were identified as Old World imposters. On the other hand, both were positively received, even though they were both being evaluated as wines
from the New World.
In the case of the New Zealand red herring, tasters thought the Château L’Ecuyer 2005 from Pomerol (£21.88, courtesy of McKinley Vintners) was
elegant and soft, with good fruit such as blueberries and blackcurrant. Some thought it shy, however, and commented on big tannic structure.
The South African flight’s interloper, Essence de Dourthe 2002 (£45, courtesy of Dourthe UK), was also a worthy ambassador, with a ripe structure
and leather and cigar box notes. One taster thought this ‘surprisingly well-balanced’, while one perceptive tasting note suggested the ‘South African terroir [was] hidden’ on the nose,
but returned on the palate.
Despite these two not being singled out, it seems there is at least some distinction between many New World Bordeaux blends and the wines they
emulate, suggesting there is a place on wine lists for both.
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Panel comments
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 Andrea Briccarello, Galvin La Chapelle
‘What I enjoyed were those wines from Argentina and Chile’s cooler areas, with purer, clean fruit. It’s all about freshness, I think. With big wines
like this it’s hard to match with food, but acidity helps. In terms of emulating Bordeaux – I think you should stick with what you’ve got. In the New World you’ll end up with a richer
wine. I think you should have your own style, and they’ve succeeded.’
Luigi Buonanno, Etrusca
‘This is a situation where Chile clearly benefits from its pre-phylloxera vines – the age of the vines gives the wines some developed notes, and can
allow their wines to seem three years older than they are. When it comes to New Zealand, they respect the fruit, and I thought their wines were more elegant than Chile. Overall, I think
we should consider how these will develop, but I don’t think it’s a problem that they’re released too early. And I definitely think that generally these are worth the money.’
Clinton Cawood, Imbibe
‘Overall, there were wines in this tasting that deserve their price tags, and deserve their place on a restaurant list. Each country had its own
distinctive style rather than emulating Bordeaux, which was reassuring. The Argentinian flight was big and bold, for example, while the US benefited from some considered winemaking. The
Chilean flight was particularly consistent.’
Mikaël Hannequin, Le Boudin Blanc
‘Argentina really provided that big fruit bomb style, and many of the wines delivered in the glass every single time. I’m concerned, though, that at
this price bracket they come into competition with evolved Bordeaux. The key to the Chilean flight was that they offered a sense of terroir. There’s a lot of Australian fruit coming in
with finesse, which is a strength. The quality of the South African flight wasn’t surprising – the country has amazing wine-growers, and the flight was delicious.’
Olivier Marie, Coq d’Argent
‘I went into this with huge expectations, considering the price. I expected high quality and precision, and in some of the wines, the Chileans in
particular, I found this. I thought the Chilean flight showed typicity and individuality, reflecting its terroirs and sub-appellations. For me, the New Zealand offering lacked freshness.
At the top-end I thought the US wines were Bordeaux-like, and not forced. And the South African wines showed typicity – they were harmonious. I think that these wines should retain their
identity, and Australia did. If I want Bordeaux, I’ll go to Bordeaux.’
Kelvin McCabe, Roka
‘The wines from Argentina that I liked were probably Malbec, with their violet characteristics. I expected riper fruit. Arguably, some of these are
young, but there are young Bordeaux that have concentration of fruit. I don’t think any of these reflect the Bordeaux blend style, or that any reflect the Old World. I do think that there
are a lot of good wines at this price point though.’
Nicola Thompson, Practical Matters
‘I don’t think these wines reflected traditional Bordeaux. There were some real fruit bombs – the ripening season’s obviously longer. As for when these
are released... everyone wants wines now. People don’t want to lay things down. Price-wise, there were three or four that I’d pay mid to top price for, but most of the good value was
closer to £20, I thought. The Argentinian flight scored the highest for me, with its vibrant flavours, good fruit concentration and excellent structure.’
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Editorial feature from Imbibe Magazine – March/April 2010
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