There are many ways of describing Pinot Noir. Sensual. Evocative. Frustrating. Diva-like. This capricious grape both demands and gives more than any other, polarising opinion as it goes. And so it was with our tasting.

Gathered in the glorious first floor bar of the Gaucho Group’s Tower Bridge restaurant, our dozen tasters were itching to get started. After all, Pinot’s influence is growing in the New World, with plenty of producers claiming that they are starting to really get the hang of it. The point of this tasting was to find out whether they are right, or whether such positive comments are little more than exaggerated boasts.

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The Panel

Andrea Briccarello, head sommelier & wine buyer, Bentleys Kyri Christodoulou, resident wine guy, The East Room Andrew Connor, head sommelier & wine buyer, The Lanesborough Ivan Dixon, wine buyer, Harvey Nichols James Franklin, tutor & assistant manager, Brookes Restaurant, Oxford Robert Giorgione, wine buyer & head sommelier, The Orrery James Hocking, wine director, The Vineyard at Stockcross Roger Jones, proprietor, The Harrow at Little Bedwyn Jade Koch, sommelier, The Tate Martin Lam, proprietor, Ransome’s Dock Philippe Loiseau, sommelier & assistant wine buyer, Hakkasan Chris Losh, editor, Imbibe Stephen Nisbet, head sommelier, L’Ortolan Emily O’Hare, sommelier, The River Café Martin Williams, operations manager, The Gaucho Group

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.South America 

A quartet of Argentine wines, all but one from Patagonia, take on a dozen Chilean Pinots, primarily from the Casablanca and Leyda Valleys.

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79 Cono Sur 20 Barrels Pinot Noir 2006, Casablanca, Chile

This may have been the priciest of the flight, but Cono Sur’s acknowledged Pinot expert, Adolfo Hurtado, shows how the best sites and the right treatment can lift Chilean Pinot from chorus level to star-billing.

‘With high-toned red fruit on the nose, cherries and raspberries on the palate, good acidity and a touch of oak, this will go well with roast meats.’ ML

‘Lovely red-fruit ripeness. This has good Pinot Noir character that doesn’t push over into black and over-extracted. Nice acidity and silky tannins.’ CL

£14.00, Concha y Toro UK, 01865 338 013

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74 Veramonte Pinot Noir 2006, Casablanca, Chile

‘Bright attractive fruit nose, this has an elegant, mouthwatering palate, making one eager for another glass.’ RG

‘Subtle nose, with leather and cigar box notes. This has a good structure and a light finish. Try with smoked haddock.’ AB

£9.40, Constellation, 01483 690 000

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74 Amayna Pinot Noir 2006, Leyda Valley, Chile

‘Darker and quite minerally, but it carries its weight pretty effortlessly. Tannins could be gentler, but should soften up with time.’ CL

‘Worth the extra money, this is superb. Delicate, balanced and ripe, with great length. Fine for more robust fare: duck, terrines, mackerel or smoked fish.’ JH

£11.72, Paragon, 020 7887 1800

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74 Errazuriz, Wild Ferment Pinot Noir 2006, Casablanca, Chile

Good wine, but many thought it was too expensive.

‘Savoury palate, good structure and mid-palate, this has good acidity and a touch of green tannins.’ AB

£10.67, Hatch Mansfield, 01344 871800

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72 Viña Leyda, Pinot Noir Las Brisas Vineyard 2007, Leyda Valley, Chile

‘Deep tarry bramble fruit, the palate shows some complexity and good fruit, acidity and weight. Try with a dish of partridge with bacon.’ ML

‘Dark fruits on the nose, with hints of violets. Bright fruit on the palate but a
bit unbalanced with the acidity, tannins and alcohol.’ RG

£7.95, Great Western Wine, 01225 322800

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69 Anakena, Ona Pinot Noir 2007, Casablanca, Chile

‘A spicy blueberry nose, this is typical modern Pinot, with well-balanced fruit and just enough structure. Good with all grilled meats or charcuterie.’ ML

‘An interesting, complex nose that shows hints of cranberries. Try it with rich venison and game dishes.’ JH

£7.95, Stratford Wine Agencies, 01628 810 606

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68 Tabali Special Reserve Pinot Noir 2007, Limarí, Chile

‘Darker, more meaty nose, this has nice sweet fruit, good weight and acidity. Would go well with roast leg of lamb.’ ML

‘Not big, but quite well put together. Starts well, but just too much oak.’ CL

£6.35, Boutinot, 0161 908 1300

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66 Cono Sur, Los Ganzos Pinot Noir 2007, Central Valley, Chile

‘Good savoury notes and aromas of red berries on the nose. Simple and pure. Well balanced, with good acidity. Very good value, it would go with all grilled meat, fish or veg dishes.’ ML

‘Think bean cassoulet, Provençale-style sausage or duck.’ JF

£5.20, Concha y Toro UK, 01865 338 013

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65 Loma Larga, Pinot Noir 2006, Casablanca, Chile

‘Loads of cassis on the nose, but the palate is more restrained, with good fruit, body and acidity. So much black fruit – a different interpretation of Pinot?’ EoH

‘Extracted, tarry red berry fruit – this is a typical modern Chilean.’ ML

£5.11, J&B, 020 7208 2500

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65 Familia Schroeder, Saurus Patagonia Select Pinot Noir 2006, Argentina

‘Good colour, with a subtle nose of brambly fruit and spice. Fantastic value, the palate is well balanced with fresh, ripe fruit, taut acidity and well judged alcohol.’ EoH

‘With its fairly dark and earthy character, this is a quite ambitious, minerally mid-weight food wine.’ CL

£7.32, Moreno, 020 8960 7161

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64 Casas del Bosque, Casa Viva Pinot Noir 2007, Central Valley, Chile

‘Strawberry fruit, with underlying savoury-herby notes. Quite intriguing, but perhaps some underripe, stemmy notes.’ ML

‘Try with squid or mussels.’ AB

£5.75, Myliko, 0161 736 9500

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64 Indomita, Nostros, Reserva Pinot Noir 2007, Casablanca, Chile

‘Elegant nose of pomegranate with hints of herbs, mineral notes and a savoury finish. Well balanced. I suggest quail, chicken or cheese.’ AB

£5.15, Alliance Wines, 01505 506060

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62 Agustinos Pinot Noir Reserva 2007, Bío Bío, Chile

‘Elegant roses and spice on the nose, with a good mid-palate and complex flavours. Game terrine or duck.’ AB

£5.67, Hallgarten, 01582 722538

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60 Bodega NQN, Malma Clasico Pinot Noir 2007, Patagonia, Argentina

‘An earthy, fresh wine, this is bright and clean and well made.’ JH

£6.10, Hispamerchants, 020 8740 4556

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Also tasted: Familia Schroeder, Saurus Pinot Noir 2007, Patagonia; Trapiche Oak Cask Pinot Noir 2007, Mendoza.

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.Conclusions 

• Argentina is showing the growing pains of youth: no consistency of style, little in the way of Pinot characteristics and an over-eagerness to please, with too much colour and tannins. This may well change with a bit of vine age.
• Chile was both more consistent and more exciting than expected.
• There’s well made ‘glug on its own’ stuff at a good price, plus a few serious foodie Pinots at the top.
• With better purity of fruit and more sensitive winemaking, the Pinot character is now emerging.
• Higher up the price scale, some of the wines show not just fruit, but minerally terroir.

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.Australia 

Ten wines, half coming from Victoria,  a few with not enough age to show their true worth, plus a lone South African entrant.

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80 Merricks Creek Pinot Noir 2005, Mornington Peninsula, Victoria

Joint top scoring wine of the tasting, this proved the favourite wine with nearly half the tasters who judged it.

‘Stunning. Easy drinking, typical classy Aussie. Try with stuffed pigs’ trotters with truffles.’ RJ

‘Very evocative, perfumed nose, with intensely sweet fruit. Big, brooding Pinot with tannins softening up. The acidity is good and carries the weight which gives great length.’ KC

‘Try it with duck pancakes, but go easy on the plum sauce.’ JK

£18.80, Stokes Fine Wine, 01256 897640

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79 Mac Forbes Woori Yallock Pinot Noir 2005, Yarra Valley, Victoria

Young Forbes takes a deliberately restrained approach, showing the influence of his time spent working in Europe. Only just pipped at the post, this was top wine of the tasting for both Connor and Williams.

‘Sweet red fruits with a dash of white pepper on the nose, pretty fruit on the palate, and a velvety silky finish, this is round and integrated. Fresh goat’s cheese with cherries.’ JK

‘Relatively delicate, this will excel with time. Roast cod with langoustine.’ RJ

‘A great aperitif or with pork or veal.’ MW

£18.77, Clark Foyster, 020 8567 3731

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77 Tapanappa, Foggy Hill Pinot Noir 2007, Fleurieu Peninsula, South Australia

Staying true to form, the Franco-Aussie partnership started by Australian pioneer, Brian Croser, has produced a wine with great potential. It had the panel salivating; veal, grilled beef with truffles and bresaola were a few of the suggestions.

‘With an intense nose of dried strawberries, this has a good refreshing flavour, but needs time.’ RJ

‘An interesting, evolving nose, this is beautifully balanced and well-rounded. Excellent length.’ KC

£17.88, Mentzendorff, 020 7840 3600

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75 Austins Pinot Noir 2006, Geelong, Victoria

‘Deep cherry-scented nose with violet and spice. Very balanced, softly grained tannins and uplifting acidity.’ KC

‘Nice weight and viscosity, this is well-rounded with a good finish. Consider meaty fish, venison, roast vegetables.’ SN

‘Slightly Burgundian charcter, but not there in complexity. Cherries and raspberries on the palate. Try with South-East Asian food.’ MW

£9.56, Armit, 020 7908 0800

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73 Omrah Pinot Noir 2007, Great Southern, Western Australia

‘Creamy on the palate, quite smooth and seductive, with a lingering whiff of truffles and good acidity. What about trying it with mushroom risotto?’ RJ

‘Sweet red fruit on the nose, with well integrated tannins and acidity and notes of frangrant rose petal on the finish. Try with feta and watermelon.’ JK

£7.25, Liberty, 020 7720 5350

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72 Killara Park Estate Pinot Noir 2005, Yarra Valley, Victoria

‘Earthy strawberry nose, with plenty of grippy tannins, this has good acidity and very good length. Try with duck.’ KC

‘Good acidity, with hints of mushroom, this is good to age. I suggest grilled turbot with morels.’ RJ

£7.10, House of Townend, 01482 326891

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66 Tamar Ridge, Devils Corner Pinot Noir 2007, Tasmania

‘A more rounded nose, with a juicy fresh palate and a white pepper finish. Try it with pork belly and cherries.’ JK

‘Bright red cherry and cranberry, with some mineral hints.’ KC

£7.05, ABS Wine Agencies, 01780 755810

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65 Racers & Rascals Pinot Noir 2005, Yarra Valley, Victoria

‘Earthy cherry nose with delicate fragrances. Bitter acid on the palate, but the fruit comes through at the end. What about duck and orange salad.’ JK

‘More of a herbacious nose. Rather sharp but OK for the price.’ RJ

£5.99, House of Townend, 01482 326891

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65 Pirie Estate Pinot Noir 2004, Tasmania

‘Slightly overripe fruit bordering on the jammy, but good concentration of black cherry and underlying herb aromas.’ KC

‘A pronounced nose of liquorice and cherry, rich and full-bodied. Cheese.’ PL

£12.00, Stratford Wine Agencies, 01628 810 606

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61 Tyrrell’s Old Winery Pinot Noir 2006, South-East Australia

‘Strawberry nose with a brambly mouthfeel, this has light tannins, medium acidity and a herbal tinge. Try it with herby pork sausages.’ MW

£5.10, Paragon, 020 7887 1800

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Also tasted: Meerlust Pinot Noir 2004, Stellenbosch, South Africa.

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.Conclusions 

• Two out of five of the top scoring wines came from this flight.
• There is value to be found, but it is the more pricey examples where quality begins to shine.
• Although there is no discernible Australian identity for Pinot, Victoria, in particular the Yarra Valley, remains king of the Pinot regions.
• Contrary to current orthodoxy, the serious Antipodean Pinots should be cellared to give of their best.
• Australian Pinot remains a hit and miss affair for many, so retain the mantra that producer is key.
• Perhaps because Pinot Noir is still relatively new to South Africa and thus in short supply both there and here, our suppliers chose not to enter them. A shame, since Elgin Valley, Walker Bay and other cooler coastal regions are beginning to make a name for themselves with this grape.

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.California 

Eleven wines from a variety of regions within what used to be known as Pinot Noir’s second home.

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78 Hartford Court Lands Edge Pinot Noir 2006, Sonoma Coast

The latest vintage in an award-winning line-up from arch Pinot fans Don and Jennifer Hartford, this scored highly for its complexity on both nose and palate.

‘Closed initially, but with aeration this has nice chocolate on the nose, good extract and supple, earthy chocolate flavours on the palate.’ SN

‘Bright powerful nose with liquoriced, layered forest fruits. Great structure and length.’ KC

£21.66, Fells, 01442 870900

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77 Littorai, Savoy Vineyard Pinot Noir 2005, Anderson Valley, Mendocino

Ted Lemon, co-founder of Littorai with his wife, Heidi, was the first US winemaker to be employed in Burgundy and his experience with top estates such as Dujac, de Villaine and Bruno Clair shows.

‘Lovely, sweet perfumed nose. Light crisp cherry lozenge flavours. Finely structured with a good length.’ KC

‘An elegant wine with notes of tobacco and vanilla, and velvety, fragrant fruits. Perfect with mushroom risotto.’ JK

£24.19, Vineyard Cellars, 01488 681313

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72 Calera, Mount Harlan Pinot Noir 2006, Mount Harlan

An opinion-divider from Pinot pioneer, Josh Jensen, whose quest to find limestone-rich soils as in Burgundy led him to establish Calera, the only winery in the Mount Harlan AVA. For some, greenness on the nose and palate let the side down, though others liked its purity.

‘Plum sauce and cherry on the nose. Plenty of sweet raspberries and black cherry. Perfect with crispy duck, this was my favourite and I would say it was good value.’ KC

£16.41, Bibendum, 020 7722 5577

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71 Whitehall Lane, Carneros Pinot Noir 2005, Napa Valley

With the acidity to cut through rich dishes, this elicited a range of food suggestions, including roast cod, green vegetables and grilled chicken.

‘High in alcohol, but seems well balanced. The palate has clean, long, lovely, seamless fruit.’ RJ

£16.78, Vineyard Cellars, 01488 681313

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68 Au Bon Climat Pinot Noir La Bauge 2006, Santa Barbara

‘Slightly more restrained than some, with herby fruit on the nose. Finely structured with warming fruit and alcohol and good tannins.’ KC

‘Fresh cherries on a nose of medium intensity, leading to a palate of cherries, vanilla and spices, and well balanced tannin. Good with chicken.’ PL

£16.55, Fields, Morris & Verdin, 020 7819 0360

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68 Littorai, Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 2006

Both samples were tried, but this still split the panel. Some found it hard to get beyond the sulphur, while others appreciated the clear cherry fruit, rounded palate and clean finish.

‘Some animal complexity on the nose which does lead to the palate. Finishes very dry.’ KC

£17.51, Vineyard Cellars, 01488 681313

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67 Delicato, Loredona Monterey Pinot Noir 2006, Monterey

‘Lots of dried raspberries on the nose, with a hint of pepper, this is well balanced and would be a great match with goats cheese and honey.’ JK

‘Easy-drinking wine with a delicate nose of fresh cherries, a good medium body, and a lick of vanilla and spice alongside cherry jam on the palate.’ PL

£7.22, Bibendum, 020 7722 5577

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67 J Vineyards Pinot Noir 2004, Sonoma

What some took for delicacy, others found to be lacking in complexity.

‘Incredibly ripe fruits on the nose and palate with some acidity. Worth £15?’ KC

£14.95, Whirly Wines, 07821 968111

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66 Saintsbury, Carneros Pinot Noir 2005, Napa Valley

‘Medium body with good tannins. Minty hints on the palate and blackberry on the finish. A touch of minerality too.’ PL

£14.77, Berkmann, 020 7609 4711

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66 La Crema Pinot Noir 2006, Russian River

‘A fresh, complex cherry nose leading to a lovely rich, complex palate, with good tannin and a long finish. Good by the glass and with cheese.’ PL

‘The most open and full of the Californian Pinots, this has a well balanced palate, with confected violets on the finish.’ JK

£13.15, Fells, 01442 870900

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62 Waterstone Carneros Pinot Noir 2006, Napa Valley

No consensus with this one, some finding it elegant and enjoyable, while others thought it too big and too ripe.

£11.45, Vineyard Cellars, 01488 681313

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.Conclusions 

• An inspiring flight with more ambitious wines, showing the benefit of continued perseverance with this most tricky of grapes.
• Good winemaking and crafty site selection is broadening the list of regions to watch.
• The innate sweetness of the fruit offered much flexibility in terms of food matching.
• California Pinot Noir has an identity of its own, tending to be more muscular than Burgundy, with a balanced, richer sweetness of fruit but a similarly refreshing acidity and good hints of minerality.
• Although not cheap, many of the panel felt these wines offered good value, particularly around the £16-17 trade price mark.
• Despite some true panel dividers, this was the region that inspired the judges to reappraise their perceptions the most. ‘I will certainly buy more California,’ concluded Roger Jones.

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.Oregon 

The sole Canadian contender was tasted alongside seven wines from the Pinot stronghold of Willamette Valley.

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79 Sokol Blosser, Dundee Hills, Pinot Noir 2005, Willamette Valley

Lam’s favourite wine of the tasting and top wine of the flight for Briccarello, Dixon and Franklin. This wine comes from the Sokol Blosser family, Pinot pioneers since the early 1970s.

‘At last a good Pinot Noir nose! Sweet, savoury and oaky. Dark with nice extraction, this has weight, acidity and good balance.’ ML

‘A Burgundian-style nose of red fruits and truffles, this is elegant with supple tannins, good balance and a haunting finish. Try it with venison.’ ID

£15.05, Les Caves de Pyrène, 01483 554 750

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78 Willamette Valley Vineyards Pinot Noir 2006

‘With smoky red fruits on the nose, this has a good balance and nice style. A good food wine. Try it with a slow, complex roast.’ JF

‘Light in colour and aromas, this has subtle flavours of fruit, oak and spice on the palate, but lacks intensity.’ EoH

£14.70, The Wine Treasury, 020 7793 9999

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76 Domaine Drouhin, Pinot Noir 2006, Willamette Valley

With much debate over whether this wine had sufficient complexity, it inspired as much as it tantalised.

‘Very well made example, this is elegant and ticks all my Pinot boxes.’ RG

‘Great colour but closed on the nose. Balanced and opulent, this has great concentration and depth. Lovely.’ JH

£13.90, Fields, Morris & Verdin, 020 7819 0360

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73 Willakenzie Estate, Pinot Noir 2006, Willamette Valley

‘Ah, a bit of intensity at last! Good ripe fruits, fine-tuned tannin and a neat acidity. This is quite classy.’ CL

‘Young, unresolved fruit on the nose, the palate shows similar youth. Too young to show much.’ RG

£16.60, The Wine Treasury, 020 7793 9999

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72 Duck Pond Cellars, Pinot Noir 2006, Willamette Valley

‘Fresh, ripe and focused, this is well balanced and light. Good aromatics.’ JH

‘Pretty delicate wine on the nose and palate. But is it perhaps too simple? Beautiful purity, but what else?’ EoH

£12.80, The Wine Treasury, 020 7793 9999

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71 Elk Cove Pinot Noir 2006, Willamette Valley

‘Rich and spicy, with a complex liquorice finish, this is long and very intense.’ AB

‘Sweet ripe strawberry and raspberry fruit, this is too soft on the palate. Over-priced.’ EoH

£19.39, Playford Ros Prestige Agencies, 01845 526 777

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71 Le Clos Jordanne Pinot Noir Single Vineyard 2004, Niagara, Canada

‘Quite fine, elegant fruit on the nose, with some oak, leads to a developed palate, with rich, silky and refined red fruits. Expensive though.’ ML

‘I love this wine, it has a fantastic sense of urgency – it just has to be drunk!’ EoH

£17.08, Liberty, 020 7720 5350

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69 A to Z Oregon Pinot Noir 2006, Dundee Hills

‘Quite restrained, smoky fruit on the nose, followed by savoury, quite rich, dark fruits and spices on the palate. Long finish.’ ML

‘Dark, savoury bacon fat and juicy fruit on the palate, this is spicy with good length and a liquorice finish.’ AB

£11.17, Bibendum, 020 7722 5577

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.Conclusions 

• Oregon produces elegant and well-crafted Pinot Noir, but at a price.
• Since £10-20 equates to pretty serious Burgundy territory, although the wines were popular, there remain question marks over whether they deliver enough bang for the buck.
• There was much debate over whether some wines had sufficient complexity. Were they simply elegant, or elegantly simple?
• It is difficult to know how the wines will age, unlike with Burgundy, adding a sizeable question mark to the already pricey proposition. But Oregon is certainly worth a look.

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.New Zealand 

Under £10

Sixteen wines from four regions, mostly Marlborough, but also Central Otago, Wairarapa and Hawkes Bay.

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75 Gladstone Pinot Noir 2006, Wairarapa

From the region also known as Martinborough came this, the top wine of the flight for both Lam and Giorgione.

‘Attractive red berry nose, this is not too sweet or concentrated. A very well-balanced wine.’ ML

‘Marzipan aromas mixed with light floral perfume. This is light and fresh and has been sensitively made. Try it with smoked salmon.’ EoH

£9.95, Great Western Wines, 01225 322800

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74 Staete Landte Pinot Noir 2006, Marlborough

‘Intense dark fruit, this has luscious red berries and a rich finish.’ AB

‘High toned and very bright, but lacks a bit of weight in the mid-palate.’ ML

£10.00, Genesis, 020 7960 9060

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73 Rabbit Ranch Pinot Noir 2007, Central Otago

‘Quite concentrated with savoury notes – all good, but lacks a bit of character.’ ML

‘Fresh, lifted red-fruited nose, with spicy overtones, this has a light fresh, balanced palate with good acidity.’ ID

£9.85, Stokes Fine Wine, 01256 897640

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72 Clayridge Vineyards Pinot Noir 2006, Marlborough

‘A restrained nose is followed by a light, elegant palate with nice acidity, length and balance.’ ID

‘Clean fruit, high alcohol, firm tannins, good crunch, but no X-factor.’ EoH

£9.42, NZ Wine Distribution Co, 0870 240 7460

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72 Foxes Island, Seven Terraces Pinot Noir 2007, Marlborough,

‘Very good. This wine is well-balanced and easy drinking.’ RJ

Quite confected strawberries and cream on the nose. Sour cherry and summer fruits on the nose.’ KC

£9.98, Playford Ros Prestige Agencies, 01845 526777

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72 Vavasour Pinot Noir 2005, Marlborough

‘Nice purity of red fruits, with a little minerality behind. Brisk and lively in the mouth, the alcohol needs watching, but this is good otherwise.’ CL

‘Fruit, spice and dark mushrooms, this is deeper in colour and flavour, with good acidity.’ ML

£8.12, HBJ, 01473 232322

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71 Overstone, Pinot Noir 2007, Hawkes Bay

‘Reduction on the nose with hints of tobacco. A well-integrated palate, with lots of fruit – cherries and gold plums. Try with veal escalope with anchovies, parmesan and parsley salad.’ JK

‘Blackberry fruit with creamy notes and a hint of struck match, this is clean, simple and straightforward.’ AC

£9.50, Heritage Wines, 0844 871 0040

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71 Mud House, Swan Reserve Pinot Noir 2006, Central Otago

‘Mocha and black raspberry nose, this is quite spicy and complex with good fruit intensity and structure. Love it.’ KC

‘Intense and complex nose of fresh plums and dark cherry, this has good attack, medium tannin and a long finish.’ PL

£10.00, MMD, 020 8812 3380

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70 Coopers Creek, Marlborough Pinot Noir 2006

‘Good for the money, this has redcurrant acidity and cranberry dryness.’ EoH

‘Light and uncomplicated, with good acidity, this would be good by the glass but lacks a bit of fruit.’ AB

£7.57, Berkmann, 020 7609 4711

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70 The Crossings, Pinot Noir 2006, Awatere Valley, Marlborough

‘Fresh and well balanced, this has excellent red fruit and a good length.’ JF

‘Quite high-toned, this has a bit too much sweet fruit without a matching savoury element.’ ML

£8.38, Mentzendorff, 020 7840 3600

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68 Spy Valley Pinot Noir 2006, Marlborough

‘Ripe plummy rich dark red fruits on the nose, with hints of vanilla. Well integrated with a clean mineral finish. I’m thinking mushrooms on toasted brioche.’ KC

£9.89, Bibendum, 020 7722 5577

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67 Borthwick Estate, Paper Road Pinot Noir 2006, Wairarapa

‘Fresh, with strawberry, raspberry and vanilla on the palate.’ MW

‘Nice crunchy fruit and intensity of flavour. A bargain.’ KC

£ 8.09, Armit, 020 7908 0800

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67 Stoneleigh Pinot Noir 2007, Marlborough

‘Juicy red fruit with a touch of Marmite. Try it with sweet potato cakes.’ EoH

‘Easy-drinking with good character and a savoury, medium finish.’ AB

RRP: £8.49, (Pernod Ricard) Waverley, 01442 293000

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65 Delta Vineyard, Marlborough Pinot Noir 2007

‘Raspberry and blueberry in abundance. A well-balanced wine with good intensity of fruit.’ KC

£8.63, Liberty, 020 7720 5350

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65 Alana Estate Pinot Noir Tuapapa 2004, Martinborough

‘Interesting flavours of brambly fruit and conserve. Good thread of acidity and punchy tannins. I like this style.’ KC

£8.30, Fields, Morris & Verdin, 020 7819 0360

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Also tasted: Wild Rock, Cupids Arrow Pinot Noir 2006, Central Otago.

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.Conclusions 

• This was a consistently reliable flight. Perhaps no stellar showings, but also no turkeys.
• At this price range, you won’t find extreme individuality. But you can find good commercial wines.
• Many tasters wanted more, but is that the hype taking over the reality? Really good Pinot costs.
• The wines are varietally correct, even if not the most elegant exponents of the grape.

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.New Zealand 

Above £10

This cartegory turned into a two-horse race between the regions of Marlborough and Central Otago for the Kiwi Pinot Noir crown.

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80 Cable Bay, Marlborough Pinot Noir 2006

Franklin’s top Pinot of the tasting, this wine impressed with its richness, concentration, and value for money.

‘Fantastic! With light spice on the nose, this has good minerality and structure.’ JF

‘This is quite minerally at the outset, then fresh and restrained with an almost floral red fruit character, with crunch behind, and controlled alcohol. Well priced.’ CL

£11.80, Stratford Wine Agencies, 01628 810 606

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78 Carrick, Pinot Noir 2005, Central Otago

‘Dark and animally on the nose, this has a nice complexity, with deep red fruit flavours. Good acidity.’ ML

‘Intense, ripe, pronounced and layered on the nose with strawberry fruit. The palate is ripe and balanced, although perhaps a touch short.’ ID

£16.90, Great Western Wine, 01225 322800

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77 Felton Road, Pinot Noir 2007, Central Otago

‘Quite dark, ripe blackberry fruit, but with a nice floral fragrance too. It’s big, fruity and upfront, though not quite tipping over into jam.’ CL

‘An alluring, perfumed floral nose with cinnamon and cloves. The palate boasts sweet, big, intense ripe fruit and with fine grained taninns. Try with duck.’ ID

£12.42, Cornish Point Wines, 020 8351 2595

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76 Henri Bourgeois, Clos Henri, Pinot Noir 2006, Marlborough

‘Complex, full fruit with a nice all round balance of tannin and acid. Excellent.’ JF

‘Good fruit purity, this is slightly softer round the edges, with more tannin.’ CL

£14.25, Les Caves de Pyrène, 01483 554 750

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76 Neudorf, Tom’s Block Pinot Noir 2006, Nelson

Favourite wine of the tasting for both Giorgione and Losh.

‘Big and flavoursome with bright fruit, this is well-made and well-balanced.’ RG

‘Good minerality, this has fruit, with a little punch to it, without being forced, aggressive or thin. Effortless.’ CL

£14-15, Richards Walford, 01780 460451

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74 Saint Clair Pioneer Block 14 Pinot Noir 2007, Marlborough

‘Plum and cherry fruit with firm, ripe flavours, this is wonderfully structured with excellent length.’ KC

‘Violets on the nose, this has subtle herbal aromatics, well-balanced fruit and acid, and very good length.’ JK

£12.21, Hallgarten, 01582 722 538

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73 Tarras Vineyards Pinot Noir 2006, Central Otago

Rather closed now, this ageworthy wine was Nisbet’s favourite of the tasting.

‘Quite yeasty, but not overdone. There’s keen fruit with grippy tannins.’ SN

‘Green cherries, raspberry and rhubarb flavours mix with bitter chocolate.’ MW

£14.15, NZ Wine Distribution Co, 0870 240 7460

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68 Craggy Range, Calvert Vineyard Pinot Noir 2006, Bannockburn, Central Otago

‘Brooding, complex style, with well-ripened fruity and finely-grained tannin. Excellent length.’ KC

£16.69, Louis Latour, 020 7409 7276

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67 Seresin Leah Pinot Noir 2006, Marlborough

‘Berry fruit acidity with bramble and oak components coming through.’ KC

‘Real blackcurrant nose and a clean finish. But the acidity dominates the fruit.’ JK

£11.09, Armit, 020 7908 0800

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66 Ata Rangi Martinborough Pinot Noir 2007, Marlborough

‘Lipsmacking, crisp lean style, bristling with ripe strawberries and some earthiness. I like this.’ KC

‘Lovely creamy red fruits on a well integrated palate.’ JK

c.£22.00, Liberty, 020 7720 5350

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64 Cloudy Bay Pinot Noir 2006, Marlborough

‘Perfumed with a savoury core, some dark fruit and quite chunky tannins.’ CL

‘Extremely elegant and intense, with a touch of tannins. Long and complex.’ AB

£18.99, Cloudy Bay UK, 020 7245 4235

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63 Drylands Pinot Noir 2006, Marlborough

‘Fresh, light and crunchy, with an almost zesty finish. Much more Burgundian than the cheaper wines, although I’d like a tad more concentration.’ CL

£10.21, Constellation, 01483 690 000

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Also tasted: Mountford Estate Pinot Noir 2005, Waipara, Canterbury; Schubert, Marion’s Vineyard 2005, Wairarapa.

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.Conclusions 

• There were stars, but the panel were hoping for more edginess.
• A high scoring flight overall, suggesting that the Kiwis have got the measure of this finicky grape.
• While regional identities are starting to emerge, Marlborough is holding its own against new kid Central Otago.
• Some swear by the Kiwis’ food-matching capabilities, but others question their tannic structure, longevity and potential at the table.
• With Chile fast making up ground, New Zealand shouldn’t take its foot
• off the pedal.
• And remember, since this is Pinot, the Burgundian mantra of ‘know thy producer’ still rings true.
• Unless specified, prices quoted are trade, single bottle ex-VAT prices.
• Thanks to the marvellous team at Gaucho Tower Bridge for looking after us so well. 

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Judge's Comments

I was expecting top quality, well-made, individual wines. Australia has an interventionist style which let the side down, although Tapanappa Foggy Hill was a breath of fresh air and very individual in approach. Kyri Christodoulou, The East Room Chilean wines gave value, plus power and concentration. I really wanted to find a blockbuster for £5, but I didn’t. There was a massive leap in quality from £6 to £8, and above £7.50 it suddenly all started to get interesting. James Hocking, The Vineyard at Stockcross With Chile, within a narrow price bracket, you’ve got everything from easy-drinking to food-matching. James Franklin, Brookes Restaurant, Oxford Brookes University California seemed to be the best value for money and most typical of its type – and most consistent. Martin Williams, The Gaucho Group I felt that some wines were disappointingly overpriced. For example, Oregon ticked all the Pinot Noir boxes, but at those prices I was expecting more. Ivan Dixon, Harvey Nichols The Oregon wines are all really elegant and well-crafted, but they’re not deep enough. They’re like really beautiful women with no education! Emily O’Hare, The River Café I want to work more with New Zealand. It has its own terroir, and you get a superb minerality with some of the Pinots. The price is competitive and the quality is good. Philippe Loiseau, Hakkasan I was disappointed with the New Zealand Pinots under £10. Chile is doing really well here, and the bar has gone up, but the Kiwis have stayed the same. For me, nothing stood out under £10. Robert Giorgione, The Orrery

With New Zealand, it’s like with Sauvignon Blanc. It’s become too easy to say, “What’s the formula?”. They need to spend less time in the winery and more time in the vineyard, like the guys in Oregon are doing.’ Martin Lam, Ransome’s Dock Overall, there’s still too much messing about with winery technique. I’m especially critical of some producers not taking advantage of Stelvin’s ability to preserve wine exactly as bottled, which is particularly important in this varietal. Stephen Nisbet, L’Ortolan Although I was a little disappointed with Australia, I realised I need to taste more Californian Pinots. Impressed with New Zealand, though. Jade Koch, The Tate Lots of ambition, but some faulty wines on show too. The Californian wines seemed the most consistent and stylistically uniform. For me, our New Zealand flight showed the biggest gap between ambition and achievement. Andrew Connor, The Lanesborough There’s more to New World Pinot than meets the eye. Chile was a big surprise and Oregon did tick all the boxes even though a bit pricey. I was a bit disappointed by the general lack of terroir and personality of the Kiwi wines. Andrea Briccarello, Bentleys Chile came out very well. Oregon had elegance, but needed a bit more weight. New Zealand was solid rather than inspiring. But maybe that’s because we were expecting so much. Chris Losh, imbibe With a couple of exceptions, Australia disappointed, however California did shine. I will certainly buy more California but continue with New Zealand as a food-led Pinot. Roger Jones, The Harrow at Little Bedwyn

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Top five 80 Cable Bay Marlborough Pinot Noir 2006, New Zealand; Stratford Wine Agencies 80 Merricks Creek Pinot Noir 2005, Victoria, Australia; Stokes Fine Wine 79 Mac Forbes Woori Yallock Pinot Noir 2005, Victoria, Australia; Clark Foyster 79 Cono Sur 20 Barrels Pinot Noir 2006, Chile; Concha y Toro UK 79 Sokol Blosser, Dundee Hills, Pinot Noir 2005, Oregon, USA; Les Caves de Pyrène

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Overstone