Red, Gold & Green: Aperitifs and Bitters

Bitter, sweet, spicy, herbal... Europe is home to a fascinating array of aperitifs, digestifs and herbal liqueurs that are full of potential for the adventurous mixologist. Alice Lascelles assembled a panel to taste some contenders ranging from 400-year-old elixirs to newcomers hot off the still

The British palate has done some growing up lately, it seems – no longer just content with neutral spirit and a slug of fruit juice, cocktail drinkers are increasingly keen to tackle the more complex and challenging flavours of drinks like the Negroni. Likewise, the classic cocktail revival is helping to unearth an array of neglected vintage and regional products big on bitter/herbal flavours – aperitifs, digestifs and liqueurs packed with exciting botanicals and interesting heritage. We decided to round up some of the more niche names we’ve noticed cropping up in cocktail competitions and on drinks lists lately for a comparative tasting. Conspicuously absent, we admit, are iconic aperitif Campari and bartender lifeblood Jägermeister, simply because we can only assume you’ll be well acquainted with them already.

RESULTS
Amer Picon Club Liqueur Bitters
Origin: France
Made from oranges, gentian and quinquina and designed to mix with white wine, this is a variant of the original bitter, created in 1837, which was made for mixing with beer.
The very thick, syrupy-sweet consistency of this aperitif was a turn-off for several panellists, several of whom likened it to flat cola. Some, however, detected some more contrasting orange/blood orange and lime characters and one some green ‘snapped sapling’ qualities. Overwhelmingly recommended as a frozen shot.
18% abv. RRP £18.88/1litre.
Speciality Drinks, 020 8838 9444

Aperol
Origin: Italy
Similar to Campari, but sweeter and lower in alcohol, Aperol has had the same secret recipe since 1919, featuring bitter and sweet oranges, rhubarb, herbs and roots.
The startling orange hue split the vote, while the notably sweet, quite syrupy consistency put several in mind of penny sweets including rhubarb & custard. But bitter citrus notes – grapefruit, passion fruit, satsumas and rhubarb – contrasted nicely. Suggested matches included robust gins, summer berries, soda and sparkling wines.
11% abv. RRP £12.99/70cl.
Cellar Trends, 01283 217703

Bitter Truth Elixier
Origin: Germany
Launched in 2010, Elixier was inspired by vermouths and alpine digestive tonics – recommended in pre-dinner Manhattans or Negronis, or as a digestif.
The spooky nose – notes included carbolic soap, bark, ashes, wood polish, dark spice and ‘sepulchral’ – enticed rather than deterred on the whole, with several loving the very powerful, very bitter palate that ‘unfurls thrillingly’ with sweet strong coffee, rosemary, eucalyptus and juniper smoke. Recommended as a dash in a Manhattan or, cheekily, as a cough remedy.
30% abv. RRP £19.70/50cl.
Love Drinks, 020 7501 9630

Byrrh Grand Quinquina
Origin: France
Created in 1886 and initially marketed as a health tonic, Byrrh’s blend of red wine and quinine was a popular aperitif in France till the mid 20th century – now making a comeback.
Many noted the grape base of this garnet-coloured aperitif, some loving its mix of red fruit coulis and sour plums/cherries, others finding it a little on the jammy/stewed side. It was low in bitterness but had a subtle Earl Grey/mulled wine spice. Serves included with gin, soda, rye whiskey or ‘chilled on a sunny day with a beautiful girl’.
18% abv. RRP £18.99/37.5cl.
Emporia Brands, 01483 458700

Chartreuse Yellow
Origin: France
The original herbal elixir was created by a 17th century alchemist and popularised by the monks of La Grande Chartreuse. Available in several varieties, with the milder Yellow an increasingly popular cocktail ingredient.
Almost everyone immediately noted the high abv and botanical complexity (it purportedly contains over 100). Citrus included lemon, lime and a slight nettly-ness, while spice showed in distinctive aniseed, very fiery gingerbread, cloves and vanilla pod. Too sweet and unctuous for several when neat, though. Suggested matches included brandy, white rum or in hot chocolate.
40% abv. RRP £30/70cl.
Fells, 01442 870900

Cynar
Origin: Italy
A dark brown, bittersweet amaro (pronounced chee-nar) made from 13 herbs and plants including artichoke leaves – traditionally drunk with soda, orange or on the rocks.
A very popular candidate, for its rich and complex mix of burnt sugar and spice aromas (that reminded several tasters of cola), cherries, coffee, cocoa, liquorice and autumnal hints of wood smoke, with a slightly minty lift and plenty of bitterness. Serving suggestions included neat over ice, with cognac, rum (even fizzed cola-style in a siphon) or crème de cacao.
16.5% abv. RRP £14.99/70cl.
Cellar Trends, 01283 217703

Dubonnet
Origin: France
An aperitif based on wines from Roussillon, infused with herbs, spices and quinine, and aged for three years in oak. First sold in 1846 and a favourite of the late Queen Mum mixed with gin.
Redcurrant/blackcurrant was a very prevalent tasting note for this aperitif, with the addition of a subtle menthol/eucalyptus note that prompted several to liken it to blackcurrant cough sweets. Some tasters enjoyed the vibrant cassis acidity and slight tannin. Matches included rye whiskey, champagne/prosecco and soda.
14.8% abv. RRP £9.18/70cl.
Pernod Ricard UK, 020 8538 4484

Fernet Branca
Origin: Italy
A multitude of herbs and spices go to make this powerful, oak-aged amaro from Milan, which was first created in 1845. Usually served as a digestif with coffee.
The most domineering in the line-up, this amaro proved startlingly minty (despite not being the Mentha variety), with an intensely bitter but refreshing finish reminiscent of Trebor Extra Strong Mints. Sweetness showed in the form of burnt brown sugar and liquorice notes that prompted a raft of flavour matches including brandy, pineapple, Coke and ginger ale.
38% abv. RRP £24/70cl.
Blavod Drinks, 020 7352 2096

Gammel Dansk
Origin: Denmark
Launched in 1964, this Danish bitters contains 29 herbs, spices and flowers including star anise, nutmeg, anise, ginger, laurel, gentian, Seville orange and cinnamon. The Danes like to drink it at celebratory breakfasts.
The most hair-raisingly bitter of the lot. The iron fist came in a velvet glove of seductive, exotic wood smoke and spice notes on the nose, but the palate was love-it-or-hate-it bitter, with a slight medicinal quality and touches of chocolate/toffee/liquorice sweetness. Used sparingly, a great alternative to cocktail bitters.
38% abv. RRP £20.37/70cl.
Speciality Drinks, 020 8838 9444

Kammerling’s
Origin: England
Launching this spring, a new amaro-style liquor containing 45 ingredients including four types of ginseng, grapefruit, Manuka honey, juniper, echinacea and ginkgo.
The pale amber colour drew praise, along with the liquid’s approachable, comparatively smooth style that achieved an appealing balance of sweetness and gentle bitterness that could be drunk neat. Warming spice, ginger, toffee, honeyed fruit and slight rootsiness also prompted suggested flavour matches with whisky.
33% abv. RRP £18.75/50cl.
Speciality Drinks, 020 8838 9444

Lillet Blanc
Origin: France
This 19th century aperitif is a blend of 85% Bordeaux wines and fruit liqueurs including sweet and bitter oranges and grapefruit. Traditionally drunk neat or, famously, in a Vesper Martini.
By far the most delicate and gentle in this flight, with no real bitterness to it. Several picked up on the wine base, citing the uplifting Sauvignon Blanc acidity through to the honeyed, slightly oily Sauternes qualities. Masses of fruit – white peach, citrus zest, passion fruit, apricot – hints of grassiness and subtle wood spice too. Praised for its mouthfeel, and recommended as a match for white spirits, or in frappés or spritzers.
17% abv. RRP £13.99/75cl.
Marblehead, 0141 955 9091

Salers Gentiane
Origin: France
A slightly green/gold bitter aperitif made in south central France from gentian root, Salers Yellow is also available in Red (20% abv) and Green (25% abv) varieties.
A very divisive entry. Some loved its distinctive vegetal/cut-grass notes and mint freshness. More rootsy undertones compared positively to chocolate, liquorice and forest floors, and negatively to pepper, sawdust, even mustard. Matches included soda, apple, gin, lemon, orange and dry vermouth.
16% abv. Available direct from Salers; contact@gentiane-salers.com

Suze
Origin: France
Launched in 1889, Suze is a French brand of bitters flavoured with
gentian root and normally drunk as an aperitif. Immortalised in 1912 in a collage by Picasso.
Close in style to Salers, but with a distinct floral note on the nose and more honeyed, heavy mouthfeel. Fruit notes of lemon, pineapple, melon, oranges and more cooked mead/marmalade nicely off-set by pronounced bitterness. Praised for its balance. A match for white spirits, pears, apples and lemonade.
15% abv. RRP £15.82/1 litre.
Speciality Drinks, 020 8838 9444

Many thanks to Jake Burger and all at the Portobello Star for hosting the tasting.

Yohann Bodier, Baranis
Baranis has a big selection of aperitifs for drinking neat or in cocktails like our Gentiane Champagne Cocktail. but because of our specifically Provençale theme, many of them are very regional, local products like Rinquinquin à la Pèche and Gnole de Provence. In this flight I found a big range of styles – Gammel Dansk was amazingly bitter, while some of the others were very sugary.

Chris Bolton, Speciality Drinks
At Speciality Drinks we’ve seen an absolute explosion in the last three years in bitters and aperitifs. I think the revival of the Negroni in cocktail bars has had a big influence on this, helping to re-introduce people to brands like Campari. It’s really interesting to see them coming back, particularly some of the really bitter ones. In this flight I really like the Amer Picon, and Aperol I could drink by itself.

Jake Burger, Portobello Star
While something like Aperol is easy to make look great in a drink, it’s harder to make some of these really dark brown, strong brands look appealing in cocktails. I think Salers and Suze are wonderful and versatile, whereas something like Gammel Dansk is astoundingly bitter – I think I’d try and use it more like a bitters in small amounts. When you’re giving people drinks made with some of these you might need to give them a bit of a heads up.

Clinton Cawood, Imbibe
There was a real variety here – the wine-based ones, for example, really stood out, from Muscat flavours on one end of the spectrum, to LBV port on the other. A number of the drinks here were balanced enough to be served on their own, but there were those that would probably perform better as an ingredient.

Hannah Lanfear, Glo Glos
You’re definitely seeing more of these kinds of aperitifs and bitters being played with in cocktails now – although I’m not sure how well they generally work in more contemporary recipes. It’s more a case of experimenting and substituting different ones in the classics. The nicest were the ones in this flight where the sweetness and bitterness was very balanced – I thought Bitter Truth Elixier was particularly well balanced.

Alice Lascelles, Imbibe
What-you-see-is-what-you-get is definitely not something you can apply to this family of drinks. The appearance often gave you very few clues about the nose, and the nose would often be strikingly different to the palate, which made this a real sensory rollercoaster – a fascinating collection of drinks, many  of them with intriguing origins and splendid packaging as well. A real pleasure to explore.

Antonino Lo Iocono, Rules
We really specialise in aperitifs at Rules – at the moment we have about 42. Some I would drink neat, others would be interesting to try interchanging in a Negroni, or an Americano – there are so many variations you can do with these drinks. Lillet almost had some prosecco notes to it – I think it would work really nicely in a Dry Martini. Some of them I would try using as a substitute for Angostura bitters in something like a Manhattan.

Paul Mant, Quo Vadis
Here in the UK, you currently see these kinds of drinks mostly getting used in cocktails but of course, in their native countries, most of these are actually drunk neat, which is mind-boggling. But I suppose it’s a case of what you grow up with and what you’re culturally used to. There’s no category – if you can call this a category – where one product differs so much to another, which is great.

Edmund Weil, Nightjar
Part of the Nightjar concept is to revive cocktails from the 1860s onwards so these kind of bitter, complex flavours are important ones for us. However they can be challenging for people – we have a bit of trouble with the Hanky Panky, which is ordered a lot but often by people who’ve never had Fernet Branca! I thought Salers’s vegetal/grassy style would go well with quite a lot of spirits, and I liked Byrhh.

Editorial feature from Imbibe Magazine – March/April 2011

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