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Seasonal Cocktails: Pick for Victory

With cold weather, dark nights, coughs and sneezes, there’s not much to lift the spirits as the winter months approach. Rubbish, says Nushi Wijewardena – why not harvest autumn’s bounty to make your own seasonal cocktail ingredients?


More and more bars are now playing with seasonal ingredients to make cocktails more exciting in the dreary autumn and winter months. It seems that suddenly winter drinks are not just about eggnog, cream liqueurs and heavy brandies: seasonal ingredients such as damsons, plums, cranberries, walnuts and chestnuts make it possible to curl up in front of a
fire with a cocktail too.

Husband-and-wife cocktail gurus Jared Brown and Anastatia Miller (pictured right) know this only too well. They uprooted their lives from the city and moved to the Cotswolds, where they now dedicate their garden to curiosities of the horticultural kind, which they then cook, macerate and blend into liqueurs and cocktails. Sticky labels and clip-top stopper bottles dominate their lives, as each harvest has to be carefully monitored for variation.

Their larder is a library of different creations, and having been at it for a few years, they even speak of vintages. They also think about ingredients to carry them through the whole year (they’d hate to go wanting in winter). Here are some of their favourites for the colder months, so you’re not stuck making parsnip Piña Coladas...


Raspberry Shrub

400g raspberries, fresh or frozen
480ml cider vinegar
200-400g caster sugar

Method: Place the raspberries and cider vinegar (preferably aged, but regular will do) into a saucepan and bring to the boil over a medium heat. When the fruit is extremely soft, strain it through a coarse sieve to release some of the pulp without getting loads of seeds. Add sugar to taste and return to the heat to dissolve. Strain the mixture through a fine sieve into a tightly sealed clip-top stopper bottle, while it’s still hot. Turn upside down in a bowl to let it cool. (This allows the heat to securely sterilize the top and seal it.) For longer shelf life, add 60ml vodka to every 480 ml of liquid.

To use: Pour 10ml raspberry shrub and 10ml crème de cassis into a chilled flute. Slowly add chilled champagne or prosecco. Garnish with three frozen raspberries.


Damson Whiskey

600g damsons
250 ml water
250g ginger root,
thinly sliced
1 orange, peel only
Caster sugar to taste
Jameson Irish Whiskey

Method: Heat the damsons, water, ginger root and orange peel in a large saucepan over a low heat until the fruit is very soft. Strain the liquid through a sieve, pushing a little of the pulp through. Sweeten to taste with caster sugar and leave to cool. To make the finished drink, mix one part of strained liquid with two parts Jameson Irish Whiskey. Strain through a fine sieve and bottle in clip-top stopper bottles. Age for at least one week, but it can be served immediately.

To use: Pour and serve.


Seasonal ingredients for autumn & winter

Wormwood (October) – This plant has gained notoriety through its life as the main ingredient in absinthe, but it’s also a popular addition to mead (honey wine). In days gone by, wormwood took centre-stage at Samhain, the Gaelic harvest festival that was celebrated from 31 October to 1 November.

Shiso/Perilla (October) – These Japanese leaves resemble stinging nettles but fear not: they’re part of the mint family. Their essential oils give them a fennel-like flavour, and they often accompany sashimi in Japanese restaurants. Try adding them to delicately-flavoured Japanese shochu cocktails.

Figs (November) – Together with apples, figs are the embodiment of autumn. Sun-dried figs have a layer of sugar on their skins, which acts as a natural preservative, so you can make
fig cocktails as late as spring if your customers are feeling nostalgic for those cosy winter months.

Quince (December) – Seriously sour when raw, quince sweetens with cooking, adding a sweet/tart balance to your cocktails.

Chestnuts (December) – The sweet nutty taste of chestnuts work well with nutty whiskies, and their floury mouth-feel can add texture to cocktails. Look for shell-on chestnuts that are
rich in colour. Cook and refrigerate them, and use within three days.


Hedgerow

Hunting Flask
600g blackberries
350ml bourbon
250 ml water
250 ml sugar
350ml Sipsmith gin
250g ginger root, thinly sliced
2 or 3 lemons, peel only

Method: Put the blackberries in a large mason jar, with the bourbon and gin, and macerate for 10-14 days. Separate the blackberries from the liquid using a strainer. Set the infused spirit aside, then simmer the blackberries in a saucepan with the water, sugar, ginger root and lemon peel for 40 minutes, until the fruit is very soft. Strain this fruit mixture through a sieve, pushing a little of the pulp through and leave to cool. To make the finished drink, mix one part of fruit mixture with one part infused spirit. Strain through a fine sieve and bottle in clip-top stopper bottles. Age for at least one week, but it can be served immediately.

To use: Pour and serve.


Wild Plum Liqueur

750g bullace plums (wild plums)
1 tsp allspice
200g caster sugar (plus extra to taste)
750ml dry white wine
500ml gin (plus extra to taste)

Method: Heat the bullace plums, allspice, sugar and wine in a large saucepan over a medium heat. Bring to the boil then leave to cool and add 500ml gin. Strain through a jelly bag, pressing as much pulp through as possible. Pour into an airtight container and rest for 24 hours. Test the mixture for its pectin level (thickness) and sweetness. Adjust with sugar or more gin to achieve a liqueur thickness. Reheat the mixture, strain through a fine sieve, and bottle in sterile stopper bottles. Age for at least 30 days before serving.

To use: Pour and serve.


Editorial feature from Imbibe Magazine – November/December 2011

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