Sommelier Wine Awards 2009: France

Rhone

A strong set of wines, that delivered character and restaurant friendliness. The only quibble? The tasters would have liked to see a few more of the cheaper entries

The Rhône has been a consistent high point in the Sommelier Wine Awards, and so it proved again this year, with a good number of wines on the Shortlist, from cheap to expensive, and a high-quality set of wines on the Gold List, too.

Moreover – and this is something that restaurants might want to think about – there was a strong line-up of whites as well as the better-known reds. Of course, white Rhônes are ‘sommelier wines’ and there was a good deal of affection for the style of the wines submitted – though the tasters admitted that they are high-maintenance wines.

For instance, it became obvious that temperature was absolutely critical. The whites are often high in alcohol, so there is a temptation to serve them pretty cool, but as Michael Davis of Pearl pointed out, they have warmth and acidity in abundance, what they often lack is obvious flavour, so serving them too cold does them no favours at all; this was a flight that benefited from the wines being served at the right temperature.

Moreover the quirks of the grapes involved mean that these are wines that go through a lot of peaks and troughs over the years. The youngest (2007) tended to fare best here. 

If the whites were the film noir/modern jazz/Liz Taylor wines of the competition, the reds were altogether more accessible and common sense. There may have been plenty of submissions over £15, but (unlike the whites) there were some decent wines at the more affordable end of the list, too.

Peter McCombie MW was not alone in commenting that he would have ‘liked to see a few more at the £5 or £6 level, rather than £7-10’. The Rhône can clearly deliver at all price levels, so a few more value-for-money troopers wouldn’t have gone amiss.

That said, the tasters really liked the richness and tannin of the Grenache-heavy wines, and the fresh pepper and spice of the northern Rhône Syrahs. Both were felt to be restaurant friendly, and the overall quality was impressive throughout the flight.

Domaine du Monteillet deserves a special mention here, supplying both of the Gold Listed red wines and even getting a white onto the Shortlist as well. Something of a one-stop shop for all your Rhône needs!

The whites are tricky wines. You can’t just take them out of the fridge and turn them over. They’re a hand-sell. Christine Parkinson, Hakkasan

I was happy with the value for money in the reds. There were some at around £7-ish that were fine, and the top end was very good too. Bea Brown, The Green Man

GOLD LIST

Lirac Blanc 2007, Domaine Duseigneur, Lirac 
£11.82 @ Mckinley Vintners
Scented, floral Marsanne character with good intensity of peach and marzipan flavour. Long and distinctive. ‘Crozes Hermitage style’, according to Richard Bampfield MW. ‘Nice citrus acidity and good texture on the finish,’ said Angus McNab.

St Joseph Rouge Cuvee Du Papy 2006, Domaine Du Monteillet
£13.72 @ Boutinot Ltd
Peppery, mineral and floral. ‘Pure Syrah,’ said Peter McCombie MW approvingly. Juicy, classy and evidently cooler climate, with a neat savoury-bacon leatheriness and chewy tannins. Brilliant with rack of lamb.

Cote-Rotie Fortis 2006, Domaine Du Monteillet 
£30.22 @ Boutinot Ltd
Pretty, perfumed and floral mid-weight offering with excellent peppery Syrah character and an appealing vegetal muskiness. ‘Spicy bullseyes, leather and smoke – delicious,’ said Caspar Auchterlonie. Quite fine, though would benefit from a few more years of further ageing.

All prices quoted are single bottle, ex-vat. Prices were correct at the time of submission and judging at the start of 2009, but may be subject to change after publication.

SOMMELIER'S SHORTLIST

Bonnie 2007, Vignerons Des 4 Chemins, Cotes Du Rhone
£14.00 @ Vignerons Des 4 Chemins
Ripe apple, citrus peel and peach, with hints of aniseed. Masculine style, with good minerality,
fresh acidity and plenty of length.

Chateauneuf-du-Pape Blanc 2007, Chateau De Vaudieu
£18.77 @ Liberty Wines
Restrained aromatics, but much more compelling on the palate. Lovely fruit and balance,
a very complete wine. ‘Delicious!’ swooned Richard Bampfield MW.

Condrieu ‘Les Grandes Chaillees’ 2007, Domaine Du Monteillet
£19.22 @ Boutinot Ltd
Nutty, creamy and honeyed summer fruits, this wine is big, rich and in your face,
with a chunky finish that lasts for minutes.

Boutinot Cairanne 2006
£7.72 @ Boutinot Ltd
Brown pepper and juicy red fruits, with violet and lavender notes. ‘Not a meaty style,
but good balance,’ said Laura Rhys.

Domaine St Damien Gigondas 2005
£13.27 @ Hallgarten Druitt
A perfumed, floral, slightly animal style of Syrah, that becomes spicier with time. Soft,
smooth, lush palate.

Chateauneuf-du-Pape Rouge ‘Clos De L’Oratoire’ 2007, Ogier
£17.00 @ Waverley TBS
Aromatic perfume, with floral and spice notes cosying up alongside the red and purple fruits
and what Louise Gordon called ‘a vague mintiness’. Lovely chewy tannins.

Chateauneuf-du-Pape Rouge 2006, Domaine De La Solitude
£19.19 @ Hallgarten Druitt
A classy wine, though still rather youthful. Spicy black plum characters, alongside an earthy,
minerally character. ‘Juicy and ripe, with smooth tannins,’ said Bea Brown.

The quality here seemed really good throughout the different price-points. Laura Rhys, TerraVina

Key to colours: Green = white wine ; Red = red wine

Editorial feature from the Sommelier Wine Awards 2009.

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