Sommelier Wine Awards 2009: Rest of Europe

High prices, for the most part, but some good, interesting wines, and no shortage of ambition from the winemakers. A good way to add interest to the classics on your list

Historically, this part of the Sommelier Wine Awards has always been very small. Odd, really, given that countries like Hungary, Greece, Bulgaria and Lebanon make so much wine that isn’t obviously covered elsewhere in the competition.

So it was good to see rather more entries this year, with some decent wines from Greece and Lebanon in particular. In fact, the Ksara Reserve du Couvent not only made it onto the Gold List, but also picked up a By The Glass award, for its performance with mushroom risotto.

In fact, the Ksara was unusual in that it was a good wine, and also delivered value for money. The criticism in this flight was less about the standard of the wines than the prices being charged.
‘It was interesting, but prices were just absolutely silly,’ said Roger Jones of The Harrow at Little Bedwyn.

With some of these at £60 in a restaurant you would struggle.’ This was particularly true of the whites, and explains why none made the Shortlist. Still, encouraging signs of good wines and ambition when
it came to the reds.

You need to have a story or something to back these wines up, especially when they’re on the expensive side. But if you can get a bit more cash out of it, then fair enough. Stephen Nisbet, L’Ortolan

GOLD LIST

Reserve Du Couvent 2006, chateau Ksara, Lebanon
£6.57 @ Hallgarten Druitt
Pleasantly refreshing bilberry and juniper-scented easy-drinking wine with a delicate lick of smoky oak. ‘Lots of wine for the price,’ approved Stephen Nisbet. ‘Rhône Valley style,’ said Alvaro Marcos Garcia. Was a 100% perfect match with the mushroom risotto.

SHORTLIST

Agiorgitiko 2006, Gaia Wines, Nemea, Greece
£10.20 @ Novum Wines
Warm, slightly cooked damson character with some complexity and depth. ‘Smooth, pleasant and not too heavy,’ said Philippe Messy.

Estate Red 2006, Ktima Alpha, Amyndeon, Greece
£17.57 @ Novum Wines
Plenty of ripeness and depth, with good ripeness and an evolved palate. Pretty classy stuff. Though a hand sell at the price, the panel enjoyed its elegant integration.

Key to colours: Green = white wine ; Red = red wine

Editorial feature from the Sommelier Wine Awards 2009.

Add your comment

Please sign in or register if you'd like to comment.