Spain on the spot

Pago wine tasting

Pago wines are making a big noise in Spain, and commanding big prices. But can they deliver where it matters – in the glass? Imbibe gathered together a panel of tasters, and a line-up of some of the country’s best-known estate wines to find out

Some people are talking about the comparatively new Spanish DO Pago as representing the best wine that Spain has to offer. Currently, only Navarra and Castilla-La Mancha have adopted the DO accreditation and so the private association, Grandes Pagos de España and its members are left promoting their single estate wines from across the whole of Spain. We wanted to see whether these wines really do represent the pinnacle of Spanish wines. We called in a selection of wines from estates that have DO Pago status as well as others which are made by members of the Grandes Pagos de España.

As always, wines were tasted blind and scored by every taster. Scores are out of 100. Prices given are ex-VAT trade prices, unless specified as ex-cellar prices in euros.

RESULTS

SPARKLING

70 Gran Caus Brut Nature 2004, Can Ràfols Dels Caus, DO Cava

‘Fine bubbles and good acidity with attractive green apple flavours,’ RM.
‘Powerful, ripe fruit,’ RT.

£9.98, Indigo Wine, 020 7733 8391

WHITES

80 El Rocallís 2004, Can Ràfols Dels Caus, DO Penedés

‘Rich, golden hue and a big spicy nose with a rich, tropical fruit palate and very long finish,’ JW.
‘A lean, dry, mineral character makes this very appealing,’ RT.
‘A wine with great potential,’ SM.

£19.73, Indigo Wine, 020 7733 8391

73 Cérvoles Blanc 2007, Bodegas Cérvoles, DO Costers del Segre

‘Buttery, apricot notes and a long finish,’ GBS.
‘Restrained and refined on the palate, with good acidity,’ JW.
‘A quality wine with good breadth of flavour and well integrated acidity,’ SM.

£11.90, Boutinot, 0161 908 1300

73 Fillaboa Albariño 2008, DO Rías Baixas

‘Light, lean and quite lovely with some fresh apple notes,’ JW.
‘Zippy acidity with nice lemon and pineapple character,’ CC.

£11.75, Ballantynes, 029 2022 2202

67 Moscatel de la Marina 2008, Bodegas Enrique Mendoza, DO Alicante

‘Good, intense Moscatel nose with white flowers; good acidity, intense palate,’ RM.

£7.17, C&D Wines, 020 8778 1711

64 Gran Caus Blanc 2006, Can Ràfols Dels Caus, DO Penedés

‘Mineral nose, flowery with dry and bracing acidity… Needs time to bed in but this is an interesting wine,’ RT.
‘Restrained, with nicely poised acidity. This is quite elegant,’ SM.

£9.98, Indigo Wine, 020 7733 8391

62 Chardonnay 2006, Bodega Manuel Manzaneque, DO Finca Elez

‘Very austere, angular style of wine with a strong mineral character,’ SM.
‘Distinct macerated pineapple flavours; plenty of length and balancing acidity,’ RT.

€7.06, ex-cellars

Also tasted: Chardonnay Joven, Bodegas Enrique Mendoza, DO Alicante

Faulty: Chardonnay Divinus 2007, Bodegas Sanchez-Muliterno, DO Pago Guijoso

ROSE

68 Gran Caus Rosado 2008, Can Ràfols Dels Caus, DO Penedés

‘A dry, invigorating rosé that will drink really well with food,’ SM.
‘Deep, intense fruit with a touch of spice,’ RT.

£8.38, Indigo Wine, 020 7733 8391

REDS

90 Chivite 2000, DO Pago Arinzano

‘Lovely fruit balance with hints of leather and spice,’ JW.
‘Powerful fruit flavours and big structure. Great with food.’ CC

€30-€40, ex-cellars

85 San Roman 2005, Bodegas Maurodos, DO Toro

‘Lots of red, raspberry fruit wrapped in new American oak; very long length,’ RM.
‘Impressive, beautifully structured, well-made wine,’ GBS.
‘Floral, ripe fruits with real elegance,’ RT.

£21.67, Moreno Wines, 020 7286 0678

83 Magníficus 2006, Bodegas Sanchez-Muliterno, DO Pago Guijoso

‘Deep, intense, mineral wine with fresh fruitiness,’ RT.
‘Deep, savoury wine which is very fruit led,’ JW.
‘Good use of wood and really fresh fruit,’ GBS.

€21.50, ex-cellars

81 Chivite 2001, DO Pago Arinzano

‘Spicy, bold, rich wine with a long, peppery finish,’ RT.
‘Lots of fruit with well-placed acidity,’ CC.
‘A big wine with ripe tannins,’ GBS.

€30-€40, ex-cellars

81 Doix Costers de Vinyes Velles 2006, Mas Doix, DOQ Priorat

‘Great complexity on the palate with a lot of flavour; big but beautiful!’ GBS.
‘A hugely complex wine with a lot to offer,’ RM.
‘Intense, deep, serious stuff,’ RT.

£50.77, Justerini & Brooks, 020 7484 6400

80 Aalto PS 2005, Bodegas Aalto, DO Ribera del Duero

‘A wine with hidden depths; a lovely mouthful of cassis and real finesse,’ JW.
‘Really appealing,’ CC.
‘Flavours of clove, balsamic and toasty fruit… This will continue to evolve,’ RM.

£47.44, Justerini & Brooks, 020 7484 6400

80 Emeritus 2004, Pagos de Familia Marqués de Griñon, Dominio de Valdepusa

‘A lovely mix of blueberries and damsons; nicely balanced,’ JW.
‘Silky red fruit with lovely long length,’ RM.
‘Cedar nose with some good fresh fruits,’ SM.

£32.60, Bibendum, 020 7722 5577

80 Gran Caus Tinto 2001, Can Ràfols Dels Caus, DO Penedés

‘Smoky, cigar-box nose with scented, herbal fruits on the palate,’ SM.
‘Lovely salty, smoky flavours with good acidity and balance… a cracker with food,’ JW.

£12.18, Indigo Wine, 020 7733 8391

79 Aalto 2006, Bodegas Aalto, DO Ribera del Duero

‘Fragrant blue fruits and spice on the nose and an attractive, well-structured palate,’ SM.
‘Good intensity with well rounded tannins,’ RM.
‘Nice cassis notes… good stuff!’ JW.

£20.77, Justerini & Brooks, 020 7484 6400

78 DO Pago Arinzano 2002, Chivite

‘Bright spice with extremely rich, dark fruit,’ JW.
‘A truly elegant wine with well-balanced rich fruit,’ SM.

€30-€40, ex-cellars

78 Finca Terrerazo 2006, Bodegas Mustiguillo, VDT El Terrerazo

‘Good berry notes with an attractive smoky edge,’ JW.
‘Sweet spice with lots of ripe fruit and well-balanced tannins and acidity,’ GBS.
‘Lovely texture to this wine and nice oak integration,’ SM.

£17.65, Liberty Wines, 020 7720 5350

77 Secastilla 2005, DO Somontano

‘Dark, deep, spicy fruits with great depth,’ JW.
‘Really big, extracted fruits with some herbal notes,’ CC.
‘Vibrant fruit and a nicely textured palate,’ SM.

£22.02, Matthew Clark, 01275 891 400

77 VDT Castilla Calzadilla 2005, Pago de Calzadilla

‘Round and well-balanced palate,’ RM.
‘Has good complexity with lots of spicy, dark fruits,’ GBS.
‘Intense attack with sweet, ripe fruits,’ RT.

€8.00, ex-cellars

77 VDT de Castilla Gran Calzadilla 2005, Pago de Calzadilla

‘A big and brooding wine with good structure, great fruit and perfect balance. This is fab,’ JW.
‘Dense, close-knit palate with sweet spice,’ RT.

€19.20, ex-cellars

75 Summa Varietalis 2004, Pagos de Familia Marqués de Griñon, Dominio de Valdepusa

‘Very savoury with rich, peppery fruits… It’s crying out for a steak!’ RT.

£13.81, Bibendum, 020 7722 5577

75 Finca Valpiedra 2005, DOCa Rioja

‘Really lovely brambly fruit and toasty vanilla; has lovely intensity,’ RT.
‘Fresh, fragrant and spicy,’ SM.

£17.33, Berkmann Wine Cellars, 01249 463501

73 Cérvoles 2006, Bodegas Cérvoles, DO Costers del Segre

‘Good intensity with cranberry and cassis fruits,’ RM.
‘Ripe, full fruits with good tannic structure,’ CC.
‘Lush, weighty, well-made wine,’ RT.

£11.90, Boutinot, 0161 908 1300

73 Escena 2005, Bodega Manuel Manzaneque, DO Finca Elez

‘Mineral notes on the nose along with ripe, red fruit aromas. Palate is round and fruity with fair length,’ RM.

€17.98, ex-cellars

73 Pie Franco 2005, Bodegas Casa Castillo, DO Jumilla

‘Loganberry character to this with well-integrated oak and acidity,’ RT.

£27.76, C&D Wines, 020 8778 1711

72 Mauro 2006, Bodegas Mauro, VDT de la Castilla

‘Really aromatic, herbal nose and a gamey, spicy palate,’ SM.
‘Silky smooth red with intense flavours of fig and liquorice,’ RM.

£20.50, Moreno Wines, 020 7286 0678

72 Peñon Ifach, Bodegas Enrique Mendoza, DO Alicante

‘Nicely expressed fruit with elegant tannins and good balance,’ JW.
‘Well put together cherry and cooked strawberry flavours; firm but fine tannins,’ RT.

£9.69, C&D Wines, 020 8778 1711

70 Cantos de Valpiedra 2006, Finca Valpiedra, DOCa Rioja

‘Big, jammy nose with fruity, well-balanced palate; tannin in check,’ CC.
‘Lush, sweet, ripe and smooth,’ RT.
‘Good, fresh raspberry scented wine,’ RM.

£8.75, Berkmann Wine Cellars, 01249 463501

70 Cérvoles Estrats 2005, Bodegas Cérvoles, DO Costers del Segre

‘Big, punchy and fruity, with a lot of tannin,’ CC.
‘Refreshing, well-balanced with sweet strawberry fruits,’ RT.

€24.00, ex-cellars

70 Salanques 2006, Mas Doix, DOQ Priorat

‘Elegant, perfumed wine,’ CC.
‘Youthful, rich, lush wine that will fill out with more time,’ RT.

£22.44, Justerini & Brooks, 020 7484 6400

69 Petit Verdot 2004, Pagos de Familia Marqués de Griñon, Dominio de Valdepusa

‘Good structure; good fruit,’ GBS.
‘Pretty oaky but well-integrated and has lots of ripe, dark fruit,’ RT.

£16.05, Bibendum, 020 7722 5577

68 Cabernet Sauvignon 2004, Bodegas Dehesa del Carrizal, DO Dehesa del Carrizal

‘Dark cherry and vanilla nose with a rich, spicy, fruit cake palate,’ RT.
‘Liquorice, black cherry and grippy tannins,’ GBS.

€4.40, ex-cellars

68 MV Azul 2007, Bodegas Dehesa del Carrizal, DO Dehesa del Carrizal

‘Big, juicy, fruit-led wine that offers terrific value for money,’ JW.
‘Lively acidity and strong, plummy fruit character,’ RT.

€3.01, ex-cellars

67 Pinot Noir, Bodegas Enrique Mendoza, DO Alicante

‘Leathery nose with a sweet berry palate,’ RT.
‘Intense floral and cherry notes; ripe tannins,’ GBS
‘Nice sour fruits with hints of spice,’ JW.

£8.10, C&D Wines, 020 8778 1711

67 Cabernet Sauvignon 2005, Pagos de Familia Marqués de Griñon, Dominio de Valdepusa

‘A big, powerful, muscular wine,’ RT.
‘Smooth, rich and full,’ CC.

£16.05, Bibendum, 020 7722 5577

67 Syrah 2006, Bodega Manuel Manzaneque, DO Finca Elez

‘Fresh, simple wine,’ RT.
‘Liquorice and black fruit on the palate with good, fruity finish,’ CC.

€8.83, ex-cellars

65 Mestizaje 2008, Bodegas Mustiguillo, VDT El Terrerazo

‘Smooth black fruis,’ RM.
‘Clean, prominent fruit character and decent length,’ RT.

£8.95, Liberty Wines, 020 7720 5350

65 Syrah 2004, Pagos de Familia Marqués de Griñon, Dominio de Valdepusa

‘Slightly wild, punchy palate but full of vibrant fruit,’ SM.
‘Needs a little more time in bottle but has ripe, black, prune fruit and good tannins,’ RM.

£16.03, Bibendum, 020 7722 5577

60 Opta 2007, Pago de Calzadilla, VDT Castilla

‘Some ripe, damson fruit flavours,’ RT.
‘Intense, peppery red fruits,’ RM.

€5.50, ex-cellars

Faulty: DO Finca Elez 2005, Bodega Manuel Manzaneque

CONCLUSIONS

Whilst there was concern about the value these wines offered – and pricing in general – the top-end reds did impress the panel with their structure and concentration of flavour.
Despite reservations over the price, scores overall were high, with many wines scoring over 75 points.
Many of the panel felt that the reds in the tasting were really going to show their best with food; preferably red meat.
The panel was particularly enthused by wines that managed to deliver both power and elegance.

What the tasters thought…

CLINTON CAWOOD, IMBIBE

‘There was a surprising stylistic consistency to these wines. Predictably, most of the quality was to be found in the reds, which were generally powerful, punchy wines, which have a place with food in a restaurant.
But while the overall quality was good, it still doesn’t justify some of the prices here.’

SARAH MCCLEERY, WINE WRITER

‘I’d say this was a tasting that had highlights rather than consistency. I felt that the wine styles were generally quite “international”, and given that the idea of “Pago” is to identify single estates with individual terroir, this was a pity. However, there were several very good wines that demonstrated good vineyard management and talented winemaking.’

RUPERT TAYLOR, TRINITY

‘An interesting tasting with some strong individual showings. However, the wines seemed to represent a generic style rather than the individual identity that DO Pago and Pagos are supposed to demonstrate. I’d like to see a little less extraction and more modest use of oak.’

JULES WATSON, CONSULTANT

‘The reds were generally very ripe and fruit-forward. Where the wines were good, they were very good, however I did feel that the wines were often over-priced and for between £10 and £30 I would be inclined to look elsewhere.’

ROBERTO MATA, EL PIRATA DE TAPAS

‘There were some really good wines in the line up but there were some faults that recurred throughout the tasting; excessive use of oak and a number of reductive wines. There were some great wines but I wouldn’t say that what we tasted represented the best that Spain has to offer.’

GERGELY BARSI SZABO, LE BOUCHON BRETON

‘The wines that I liked most were Spanish wines at their best – recognisably Spanish, with loads of alcohol and jamminess, but not in a New World way. For the cheaper wines, and the whites in particular, I don’t see why they need a new system, but for the ones in the top price brackets, I understand and fully support this.’

Editorial feature from Imbibe Magazine - January / February 2010