SWA 2011: NEW WORLD - PINOT NOIR - NEW ZEALAND

SWA 2011: NEW WORLD - PINOT NOIR - NEW ZEALAND

Pinot Noir: New Zealand
A big improvement on last year’s medal haul, although with nothing under a tenner, it came at a price…

Hard to believe, given that it’s such a bitch to get right, that the New World Pinot category attracted almost as many entries as Cab/Merlot. Winemakers outside Europe clearly love
a challenge, and they don’t come much more intoxicating and infuriating than Pinot Noir.

For most observers, of course, New World Pinot means New Zealand Pinot. But if you were hoping that this year’s competition would provide you with a definitive answer as
to where this bellwether country is at the moment, you’re going to be disappointed.

Half the tasters thought that the country was making real progress, while others thought it had ground to a halt. Some tasters thought there were issues of both over- and under-ripeness and ‘New Zealand oak tainted by Pinot’, while others insisted that the wines were not simply good for the money but good full stop.

‘There was some good individual character in our flight,’ said Paulo Brammer.
‘You could pick out the regional differences, and they’re not overpriced either, so
they’re highly sellable.’

Other tasters, though, baulked at a flight of wines starting at £8 ex-VAT, and the fact that they didn’t find anything medal-worthy until nearly £11. ‘That’s going to be up around £50 on a wine list and, unless it has Martinborough on the label, you’re going to find that hard to sell,’ said a pragmatic Caspar Auchterlonie, Team Leader.

James Hocking, from The Vineyard, was more sympathetic. ‘You have to ask what
a bottle of Pinot would cost from California or Burgundy,’ he mused. ‘There’s a quality guarantee here that other countries wouldn’t have.’

Both, certainly, had a point. Not one of the Kiwi medals was under £10, meaning that New Zealand Pinot joins the likes of amarone and Barolo etc in that it effectively doesn’t do entry level, dahling. On the other hand, two Golds, four Silvers and four Bronzes is
a pretty solid performance. And while the wines weren’t actively cheap, the pricing
was not stupid either.

All in all a step up from last year’s haul of no Golds and six Silvers, though perhaps it might be nice to see the spectrum of entries stretched next year, with a bit more activity under a tenner and up around the £20 mark as well.

“On the whole, I think the Kiwi Pinots were all pretty food friendly – something like a rack of lamb works well. ” Laura Rhys MS, ex-Hotel TerraVina

GOLD LIST

Saint Clair Pioneer Block 5 Bull Block Pinot Noir 2009, Marlborough, New Zealand
£10.95 @ Hallgarten Druitt
SWA 2011 Gold List ‘Behind the delicate nose lies strong red fruits with hints of violets and a little mint,’ said an impressed Rhys Griffiths. On the palate this has pleasantly fresh acidity, a nice freshness generally, and all at a manageable price. ‘The tannins are juicy, approachable and quite firm,’ said Team Leader Natasha Hughes.

Akarua Pinot Noir 2009, Bannockburn, Central Otago, new zealand
£14.42 @ OW Loeb
SWA 2011 Gold List Ruby in colour, this shows great aromas of ripe strawberry, raspberries and
mulberries on the nose alongside notes of leather and vanilla. Ripe but restrained on the palate, with a slight herbiness, cinnamon hints and supple tannins. With stunning purity and balance, James Hocking felt it was ‘benchmark Otago’.

SILVER

Rua Pinot Noir 2009, Central Otago, New Zealand
£11.17 @ OW Loeb
With its spicy nose, good concentration of red berry fruit on both nose and palate, and excellent balance, Nick Chiu thought that this would be great with lamb. ‘Lively and juicy, the tannins have a silky texture while being grippy on the finish,’ said Natasha Hughes.

Julicher 99 Rows Pinot Noir 2009, Martinborough, New Zealand
£12.80 @ The City Beverages Company
Cherry, spice, a touch of beetroot and green apple on the nose, this has nice structure and
good damson fruit. There’s cool eucalyptus on the finish, with good length. ‘Good spiciness
and a nice, lean mineral finish,’ said Laura Rhys MS, while Mark Deamer commented: ‘Thankfully light on oak, this is a good food wine.’

Craggy Road Te Muna Road Vineyard Pinot Noir 2008, Martinborough, New Zealand
£17.21 @ Louis Latour Agencies
Unmistakably Kiwi in style, this has a big, full Pinot nose, with oak spice, plenty of ripe fruit and good acidity. ‘Good, supple tannins and lovely integrated oak,’ said Laura Rhys MS, while Joris Beijn commented: ‘It’s a top wine despite being high in price.’

BRONZE

Nautilus Pinot Noir 2009, Marlborough, New Zealand
£10.35 @ Negociants
Gunfire on the nose, this is an opulent and fresh style. Free of jamminess, there’s a fine core of acidity. ‘Dried strawberry notes with ripe, silky tannins and a tarry back palate,’ said Peter Csizmadia-Honigh.

Mission Estate Pinot Noir 2007, Central Otago, New Zealand
£10.38 @ Cockburn & Campbell
With its earthy approach, serious concentrated fruit and fine focus, this is a good example
of Central Otago Pinot Noir. ‘Dry and fresh on the palate with ripe fruits, sweet spices and
good length,’ said Peter Csizmadia-Honigh.

Pegasus Bay Pinot Noir 2007, Waipara Valley, New Zealand
£14.90 @ New Generation Wines
Light ruby in colour, this has a pleasant mix of ripe red and dark fruits, with hints of leather, silky, cedar-infused spices and leafy notes. ‘Easy going, round and approachable,’ said Natasha Hughes.

Julicher Pinot Noir 2009, Martinborough, New Zealand
£15.60 @ The City Beverages Company
A succulent wine with a mix of sweet red and darker fruit on the nose and palate, grippy tannins and good balance. ‘Lovely, fresh structure with hints of earth,’ said Paulo Brammer.

Editorial feature from Imbibe Magazine – May/June 2011