SWA 2011: SPARKLING WINE & CHAMPAGNE - £20+

SWA 2011: SPARKLING WINE & CHAMPAGNE - £20+

Sparkling Wine & Champagne: £20+
Some undeniably excellent wines in this price band, with only perceived youthfulness preventing a slew of Golds

Predominantly the preserve of vintage Champagnes and (usually) a prestige cuvée or two, this upper end of the Champagne list is usually about finding the odd wine that over-delivers for the money, so that a sommelier could offer them as a trade-up with confidence.

Since the overall quality here tends to be high, debate is often about style and drinkability as much as anything else. Historically the tasters tend to go for a well-priced, ready-to-drink vintage and splash out on something fancier at the luxury end in case a group of Premiership footballers, City boys or X-Factor judges come in.

But, tempting though it was to scatter Golds like confetti, the panel was ruthless in going for wines that it thought would be immediately appealing. ‘This was a tough tasting; the overall quality of the wines was good, and it was a question of what styles would work best with the customers in a particular restaurant,’ said Angus Macnab, wine consultant.

The Silver medal winners this year were uniformly excellent, but a few were felt to be perhaps a little too austere for majority tastes. Given a bigger wine list or the right kind of clientele, however, they would be shoo-ins.

‘[The Taittinger] was a unanimous choice, showing great quality, lovely balanced acidity, good fruit, length and a lot of complexity. This would probably be on the list at £95, but I am very confident that this would sell,’ said James Hocking, The Vineyard at Stockcross.

It is the second year on the trot that the Taittinger 2004 has picked up a Gold (albeit
a quid more expensive this time) and what it had over its £20+ competitors was not just drinkability, but the wow factor. It was obvious where the extra money was going.

In fact, it was the lack of wow factor in many £40+ wines that kept them off the list. Yes, there was elegance and restrained depth and finesse, but though Coq d’Argent’s Olivier Marie was sure he would be able to sell these wines, the tasters in the final round felt that customers paying big money would probably want something a bit more obviously expensive. A bit less elegance, perhaps, and a bit more oomph?

‘These need to be wines that the customers will immediately understand, wines that deliver enjoyment, not wines that they have to work to appreciate,’ said Luigi Buonanno, Etrusca Restaurants. ‘Wines that are too young will be difficult to sell.’

Credit to the Bellavista Franciacorta 2005, by the way – the first Italian sparkler to medal in SWA at this price, and one our tasters felt could go all the way in future years.

“This was a real mixed bag, with both reductive and oxidative styles, but some good wines, especially at the more reasonable prices. ” Olivier Marie, Coq d’Argent

GOLD LIST

Taittinger Brut Vintage 2004, Champagne, France
£30.62 @ Hatch Mansfield
SWA 2011 Gold List This rich, complex Champagne starts with sweet, ripe, fruity aromas on the nose alongside rich, honeyed, toasty notes. The mousse is lively, with the palate showing fresh acidity, plenty of citrus fruit and a balanced, relatively long finish. ‘Elegant, with lovely austerity but richness and depth, too,’ said an impressed Peter McCombie MW, Team Leader.

SILVER

Bellavista Franciacorta Gran Cuvee Brut 2005, Lombardy, Italy
£26.40 @ Alivini
Hints of nuttiness combine with honey and spice on the nose, leading to a complex but balanced palate of bright orchard and stone fruits and a medium-to-long finish. ‘Fantastic minerals on the nose,’ said Mikaël Hannequin, Searcys. ‘Very crisp and fine bubbles.’

Champagne Lallier Grand Cru Zero Dosage NV, Champagne, France
£29.11 @ Boutinot
A distinctive Champagne that promises to develop well but is already beguiling in its complexity. Croissant and butter biscuit on a vanilla-scented nose. Chalky minerality, good balance, freshness and finish, plus Olivier Marie noted ‘a bitterness that adds an extra dimension’.

Taittinger Les Folies de la Marquetterie NV, Champagne, France
£31.88 @ Hatch Mansfield
Dark straw in colour, this beguiled with its complexity. Quince, candied lemon and earthy, honeyed notes sit alongside yeasty aromas on the nose. A gentle, smooth mousse accompanies a palate full of apple and citrus flavours and a touch of oxidation, followed by a long finish.

BRONZE

Duval-Leroy Brut Vintage 1999, Champagne, France
£22.43 @ Wine Studio
Beautiful aromas of hazelnut and fresh green walnut balanced with white peach, lead through to a pleasing palate showing nice freshness and a long-lasting finish.

Jacquart Brut Mosaique NV, Champagne, France
£24.44 @ Enotria
An inviting nose of ripe apples and peaches, honeysuckle and acacia, toastiness and patisserie aromas. The flavours follow though to a refreshing palate with touches of minerality, fine balance and good finish.

Taittinger Nocturne Sec NV, Champagne, France
£26.88 @ Hatch Mansfield
Clean, showing an oxidative style, with dried nuts – cashews, Brazils, almonds. Balanced and complete,’ said Sarah McCleery, Winetalk. ‘Complex and elegant, despite its ample full palate,’
said Olivier Marie, adding that its high dosage made it good for food.

Duval-Leroy Femme de Champagne 2000, Champagne, France
£56.60 @ Wine Studio
Relatively lean on the nose with smoky, salty notes and a touch of richness in the background. Plenty of texture with dried apricots and peaches, minerality, a fine autolytic character and a lovely length on an elegant palate. ‘This is a great wine with massive ageing potential,’ enthused Angus Macnab.

Champagne Deutz Cuvee William Deutz 1999, Champagne, France
£63.16 @ Berkmann Wine Cellars
‘Fascinating nose,’ said Luigi Buonanno of the bruised apple and ripe peach with fresh white blossom aromas alongside yeasty notes. Fresh, with a fine lemony character on the palate,
there’s a dash of chalky minerality and a hint of iodine.

Perrier-Jouet Belle Epoque 2004, Champagne, France
£122.55 @ Pernod Ricard UK
This could have hit Gold except for the price, taking it out of reach of all but the most premium outlets. ‘A point,’ said Peter McCombie MW. It has a subtle nose with lovely ripe aromas and a toasty character leading to a taut palate with great balance. ‘Beautiful balance and concentration,’ said James Hocking. ‘Elegant and aristocratic,’ said Olivier Marie.

Mumm de Cramant NV, Champagne, France
£43.39 @ Pernod Ricard UK
Elegance personified, with a soft nose of peach and white flowers leading to a youthful creamy palate with nice minerals, good acidity and a long finish.

“I was looking for finesse and elegance, and there was a good level of quality here, with several wines that were enjoyable and representing good value for money. ” Sergio Benito, Bistro du Vin

Editorial feature from Imbibe Magazine – May/June 2011