While best known from its Rhône heartland or Australia, Syrah (or Shiraz, depending on the whim of the winemakers) has been receiving increasing attention in the rest of the New World, too, at a wide range of price points and quality levels.

Suppliers for this tasting could provide wines from any New World country (aside from Australia), and their choices speak volumes. South Africa and Chile are a clear priority for this varietal in the UK, with New Zealand and California less well represented.

The assumption among our tasters beforehand was that these wines would deliver distinct Shiraz characteristics, like black fruit and spice, in a New World way – in other words, big and fruity – but a number of panellists were sceptical about what they’d find in terms of quality. The results were surprising, and in most cases pleasantly so.

---

the panel

Laurene Amiet, One Aldwych Hotel Nicolas Angelina, Noura Fred Brugues, Sketch Lecture Room Clinton Cawood, Imbibe Olivier Gasselin, Bluebird Luciana Girotto, Marc de Grazia Selections Mike Harrison, Consultant James Hobeika, Ebla, Fakhreldine James Hocking, The Vineyard at Stockcross Daniel Marzotto, Osteria Dell’Angolo

---

HOW IT WORKS Suppliers were asked to submit Shiraz/Syrah wines from New World producers. Red wines made from predominantly Shiraz/Syrah were acceptable – blends and rosés were not. Australia was excluded, as it is already an established produce, and would likely have dominated. Emerging Syrah/Shiraz producers were the subject of the tasting. Each supplier was limited in the number of wines they could submit, and their choices provided information about which countries and price points were a priority. Suppliers were asked to provide their most commercially viable wines, not necessarily their most expensive ones. Wines were tasted blind, with only the country of origin and price known. Flighting was done by country, in price order. Tasters were divided into two teams, each tasting wines from certain countries.

SCORING SYSTEM The results use a pure 100-point scale, with marks below 50 quite possible. Wines were marked as follows:

90-100 astounding 80-89 excellent 70-79 very good 60-69 good

---

RESULTS

ARGENTINA

63 Las Olas Shiraz 2008, Valle de la Puerta, Famatina Valley

‘A very full mouthfeel. Spicy and balanced. At that price, what value for money.’ FB

‘Juicy, vibrant, very approachable and forward. Overdelivers for the money.’ MH

£4.59, Patriarche Wine Agencies, 020 7381 4016

---

63 La Chamiza Professional Shiraz 2006, Mendoza

‘Fresh mixed berries – fresh and tannic. Strong vanilla aroma.’ LG

‘A lot of dark fruit, spiced berries; depth, with delicacy. Ripe and juicy palate.’ OG

£9.99, World Wine Agencies, 01608 658062

CALIFORNIA

83 Baileyana Syrah Firepeak Vineyard 2004, Edna Valley

‘Northern Rhône in style. Well made, with great length. Expensive, but worth it.’ JH

‘A bit of funk and spice, followed by rich fruit – really moreish.’ CC

£17.25, Great Western Wine Company, 01225 322820

---

81 Hahn Estates Syrah 2006, San Luis Obispo

‘Juicy, fruity wine, with a bit of menthol.’ CC

‘Tannic, with good length and really good value for the money. A food wine.’ LA

£9.20, Patriarche Wine Agencies, 020 7381 40160

---

75 Zaca Mesa Syrah 2003, Santa Ynez Valley

‘Rich, creamy fruit. Some smoky pepper and spice. Complex and well made.’ JH

‘Rich and intense. Tannins a bit tight.’ LA

£12.75, Great Western Wine Company, 01225 322820

---

73 Syrah Central Coast, Qupe 2006, Santa Barbara

‘Restrained and elegant on the nose, with some fruit on the palate.’ CC

£10.30, Fields, Morris & Verdin, 020 7819 0360

---

71 Marmesa Cerro Romauldo Syrah 2006, Central Coast

‘Rich and flavoursome.’ LA

‘Lots of liquorice, cassis and currants. The alcohol’s maybe a bit high.’ CC

£9.91, Bibendum, 020 7722 5577

---

68 Syrah Le Pousseur, Bonny Doon 2005, Santa Cruz

‘Smoky, intense fruit. Great balance and depth. Great poise – very good.’ JH

‘Restrained on the fruit front, but really big tannins. A food wine.’ CC

£9.80, Fields, Morris & Verdin, 020 7819 0360

---

64 Cycles Gladiator Syrah 2007, Hahn Family Wines, Central Coast

‘Good balance, with a bit of a jammy nose. Good for the price, and by the glass.’ LA

‘Definitely on the jammy side, with bubblegum and cassis notes.’ CC

£6.73, Patriarche Wine Agencies, 020 7381 4016

---

64 Delicato Family Vineyards Shiraz 2006, Monterey

‘Meaty, with good concentration and a long finish. Good value.’ NA

‘Quite restrained and light, reminiscent of pomegranate and cranberry.’ CC

£6.82, Bibendum, 020 7722 5577

CHILE

79 Grey Shiraz 2006, Viña Ventisquero, Colchagua, Apalta

‘Smoky, meaty character. Acidity and tannins in balance. Good BBQ wine.’ LG

‘Rhônesque in style on the nose – this wine is spicy, earthy and multi-layered, with well-integrated fruit. It should age well.’ MH

‘This is what I was expecting of Chilean Shiraz – nice and full, well balanced with some juicy notes of red fruits.’ FB

£7.02, PLB Group, 07554 435299

---

78 Montes Folly 2005, Central Valley, Colchagua Valley

‘Big fruit, modern, some spices, good concentration. Generous ripe palate – very pleasurable.’ OG

‘Well balanced, this wine is built to age. French style there, almost Bordeaux.’ FB

£31.55, HwCg Specialist, 01279 873500

---

75 Perez Cruz Syrah Reserva Limited Edition 2006 2006, Maipo Valley

‘Spices. Concentration and lots of depth and poise. Wild berry character. Elegant and refined palate.’ OG

‘Peppery nose, and some liquorice. Very well integrated tannin and wood.’ MH

£11.98, Novum Wines, 020 7820 6720

---

74 Montes Alpha Syrah 2006, Central Valley, Colchagua Valley

‘A lot of typicity, depth, spices, intensity of concentration. Generous, with big tannins and high alcohol. Does the job nicely.’ OG

‘Some depth of fruit. Riper grapes. Multi-layered. Nice wood management.’ MH

£9.25, HwCg Specialist, 01279 873500

---

74 Antu Ninquen 2006, Colchagua

‘More of a food wine. Too full to do by the glass, but good in a brasserie.’ FB

‘Big concentration, lots of spice, chocolatey. Big chunky palate, with high acidity and crunchy tannins.’ OG

£10.38, Enotria, 020 8961 4411

---

73 Pangea Syrah 2005, Vina Ventisquero, Colchagua, Apalta

‘Violet and rubbery aromas on the nose. This is balanced, with concentrated fruit. Good product.’ LG

‘Moving up in price, especially from Chile. Tight nose, and substantial tannins.’ MH

£17.14, PLB Group, 07554 435299

---

72 Vina Chocalan Syrah Reserva 2005, Central Valley

‘Vegetal and spicy, with great concentration. A bit smoky.’ DM

‘More complex Old World brambly fruit. Some structure and acidity, but soft tannins. Needs some time.’

£6.37, Liberty Wines, 020 7720 5350

---

69 Caliterra Reserva Shiraz 2007, Colchagua

‘Black pepper, cooked wildberries, elegant, polished. Heavier and generous on the palate.’ OG

‘Light, with some cherry juice on the nose and a fresh mouth full of fruit. Ideal type of light red full of spice for lunch.’ FB

£4.97, Hatch Mansfield, 01344 871800

---

66 Cuvée Alexandre Syrah 2006, Casa Lapostolle, Cachapoal Valley

‘Almost Amarone style on the nose. It’s possible to get concentration with balance and freshness. Good for the winter.’ FB

‘A bit restrained, very dark fruit, but struggling to open up. Smooth palate.’ OG

£10.75, Berkmann Wine Cellars, 020 7609 4711

---

65 Errazuriz Shiraz Max Reserva 2006, Aconcagua Valley

‘Minty, fruity, great tannin, good acidity – balanced, but needs more time.’ DM

‘Delicate, fine fruit, spice mix. Elegant palate. Concentration, but silkiness.’ OG

£10.67, Matthew Clark, 0870 600 0640; Hatch Mansfield, 01344 871800

---

63 Amayna Syrah 2007 2007, Viña Casal de Gorchs, San Antonio, Leyda Valley

‘Touch of green and peppery on the palate. Very fresh. Fragrant black berries, smooth and round.’ LG

‘Dark, deep and broody. More vegetal Old World nose. Nice acidity. Food friendly.’ MH

£11.84, Paragon Wines and Spirits, 020 7928 7300

---

62 Caliterra Tributo Shiraz 2005, Colchagua

‘Green leaves, rich and a bit spicy.’ DM

‘Dark berries and a vegetal character. Spiced orange and dark chocolate.’ OG

£6.68, Hatch Mansfield, 01344 871800

---

61 La Playa Syrah 2007, Colchagua Valley

‘Deep nose of blackberry, as well as farmyard. Green pepper on the palate.’ FB

‘Some depth and spice, a little rustic.’ MH

£4.70, Ellis of Richmond, 020 8744 5576

---

61 Cantaluna Shiraz 2006, Colchagua Valley

‘A touch of reduction on the nose, but will probably go with age. If the nose becomes like the palate, this will be the perfect type of Chilean wine to do by the glass.’ FB

£5.00, Patriarche Wine Agencies, 020 7381 4016

---

ALSO TASTED

Falernia Syrah Reserva 2006,
Valdivieso Reserva Syrah 2007,
Viu Manent Secreto Syrah 2007

INDIA

60 Sula Shiraz 2008 2008, Nashik

‘Sour berries, and good structure.’ JH

‘Smoked meat on the nose, with some fruit as well.’ CC

£6.22, Novum Wines, 020 7820 6720

NEW ZEALAND

70 Tinpot Hut Syrah 2007, Hawkes Bay

‘Leafy palate with flavours of dark chocolate and currants.’ OG

‘Showing much more varietal character. This has nice acidity and long finish,
plus it’s good value too.’ MH

£9.62, Liberty Wines, 020 7720 5350

---

68 Schubert Syrah 2005, Martinborough

‘Nice Old World style – complex, needs time and would benefit from decanting.’ MH

‘Spice and freshness, full and long.’ FB

£21.50, Ellis of Richmond, 020 8744 5576

---

65 Te Mata Woodthorpe Syrah/Viognier 2006, Hawkes Bay

‘Vegetal, fruity and a bit spicy.’ DM

‘Very leafy. Big ripe fruit, Indian spices and leather. Soft tannins and ripeness.’ OG

£9.50, Seckford Agencies, 01206 231188

---

63 Southbank Estate Syrah 2005, Hawkes Bay

‘Quite spicy with some concentration. This has a wild berry character, though it’s a touch vegetal too. Ripe, very leafy, underripe character.’ OG

‘This is clean and fragrant, with the tannins in line. Well-structured wine.’ LG

£11.32, Mentzendorff, 020 7840 3600

---

63 Vidal Syrah 2007, Hawkes Bay

‘A very polished wine. The palate has lots of depth, but elegant fruit. Silkiness, and ripe dark fruit.’ OG

‘Fresh, dark fruits, good balance and acidity. Fresh fruit.’ LG

£7.44, Matthew Clark, 0870 600 0640; Hatch Mansfield, 01344 871800

---

61 Murdoch James Saleyard Syrah 2004, Wellington, Martinborough

‘Smoky flavour, berry, liquorice.’ DM

‘Shows maturity, cooked fruit, leather and a little musk.’ OG

‘Smoky and light – meaty on the palate. Fresh. Blackberry.’ LG

£12.80, Les Caves de Pyrène, 01483 538820

---

60 Chalk Ridge Syrah 2007, Coopers Creek, Hawkes Bay

‘An evolved palate. Some cedar notes and managed tannins.’ MH

‘Nice aromatic nose – this is a well-made Shiraz. The grape’s personality is kept, and complemented by freshness.’ FB

£8.99, Berkmann Wine Cellars, 020 7609 4711

---

ALSO TASTED

Trinity Hill Hawkes Bay Syrah 2007, Alpha Domus Syrah 2007

---

SOUTH AFRICA

78 Glen Carlou Syrah 2005, Paarl

‘Eucalyptus and pine on the nose. Full and fruity on the palate, with a fresh finish.’ CC

‘Good nose – ripe and developed, and well balanced.’ JH

£10.25, Enotria, 020 8961 4411

---

75 Spier Private Collection 2005, Stellenbosch

‘Spicy, with good concentration, nice fruit and a long finish.’ NA

‘Nice nose – complex and supple, with black jam and ripe fruit. Will develop.’ LA

£9.88, PLB Group, 07554 435 299

---

75 Boschendal Reserve Collection Shiraz 2004, Franschhoek

‘Some depth and ripeness.’ JH

‘Pepper steak on the nose, with some cherry and raspberry on the palate.’ CC

£8.69, Matthew Clark, 0870 600 0640

---

74 Kanu Limited Release Shiraz 2004, Stellenbosch

‘Spices, black fruit, young, with good intensity. Rich, with good structure.’ LA

‘Juicy, with lifted acidity and good tannin.’ CC

£7.95, Berkmann Wine Cellars, 020 7609 4711

---

71 Pump House Shiraz 2006, Backsberg Estate Cellars, Paarl

‘Liquorice and blackcurrant on the nose and palate. Some good fruit and tannin.’ CC

£8.35, Ellis of Richmond, 020 8744 5576

---

69 Guardian Peak, Shiraz 2007, Engelbrecht Els, Stellenbosch

‘Some development. Ripeness and balance. Well made.’ JH

‘Very good value – spicy, with good fruit, a long finish and good concentration.’ NA

£6.26, Seckford Agencies, 01206 231188

---

69 Kevin Arnold Shiraz, Waterford Estate 2006, Stellenbosch

‘Very mineral – interesting with food.’ NA

‘Pleasant shortbread aromas, and not shy on the palate. Liquorice-heavy.’ CC

£12.30, Fields, Morris & Verdin, 020 7819 0360

---

67 Brick Road Shiraz 2005, Middelvlei, Stellenbosch

‘Very rustic, with quite light body.’ LA

‘Very complex, with some ripeness and opulence. A really good wine.’ JH

£9.99, World Wine Agencies, 07764 372229

---

66 Jakkalsfontein Shiraz 2004, Fairview, Swartland

‘Fruit and spice – really complex. Would be good with grilled meat.’ LA

‘Preserved cherries. Aromatic, with big grippy tannins.’ CC

£11.95, Liberty Wines, 020 7720 5350

---

66 Nelson Estate Shiraz 2002, Paarl

‘Rustic, earthy notes. Very European in terms of structure. Well made.’ JH

‘This would be a good match for dishes that come with a sauce, which would counter the dryness of this wine.’ LA

£11.36, Corney & Barrow, 020 7265 2530

---

65 Iona Syrah 2006, Elgin

‘Blueberry, liquorice and cherry flavours, with good tannic structure.’ CC

‘Good fruit and long length, but it’s on the expensive side.’ LA

£11.07, Enotria, 020 8961 4411

---

65 Lourensford Estate Syrah 2007, Stellenbosch

‘Really good fruit/acid balance.’ JH

‘Fresh, unripe black fruit and young tannins. Young.’ LA

£6.62, Hatch Mansfield, 01344 871800

---

64 Capell’s Court Shiraz 2007, Linton Park, Wellington-Paarl

‘Medicinal, with long concentration.’ NA

‘Dark fruit, but quite young and fresh.’ LA

£5.86, Eurowines, 0870 162 1420

---

63 Luddite Shiraz 2005, Walker Bay, Stellenbosch

‘Lots of fruit – ripe strawberry, blueberry, liquorice and red berries.’ CC

£16.45, Les Caves de Pyrène, 01483 538820

---

61 Slowine Shiraz 2006, Paul Cluver, Elgin

‘Black fruit, peppery and intense. A good by-the-glass candidate.’ LA

‘Black cherry and plum preserve. Has some astringency.’ CC

£4.77, Seckford Agencies, 01206 231188

---

61 Brampton Shiraz 2006, Rustenberg, Simonsberg, Stellenbosch

‘A well balanced palate, with good fruit. Very enjoyable overall.’ PH

‘Quite a big wine. Juicy and stalky, with some nice acidity.’ CC

£6.50, Seckford Agencies, 01206 231188

---

ALSO TASTED

SAAM Mountain Vineyards Shiraz 2007,
Linton Park Shiraz 2007,
Radford Dale Shiraz 2005,
Durbanville Hills Shiraz 2005

Many thanks to Brasserie St Jacques in London for hosting the tasting.

---