Voddies from the bloc

Voddies from the bloc

From spirits to celebrities, Eastern Europe is where it’s at right now, argues Geraldine Coates in her feature in this issue (p64). Here, she lines up the region’s most famous export for an international vodka taste-off.

The tasting

All vodkas were tasted blind with equal parts of water at 40% abv, apart from Balkan 176, which is at 88% abv. No distinction was made between standard, premium or ultra-premium brands as we were looking at how factors such as the raw material and production methods affect the final taste. Every vodka had a quite distinct flavour profile and important differences in terms of the raw materials were clearly identified in each case.

PANEL

1 Mike Aikman, owner and manager, Bramble – ‘I think that the Eastern Europeans know how to make the best vodka, with the Polish versions a cut above the rest for me. They have slightly more character and heritage and therefore will always be more popular with the discerning drinker.’

2 Ben Carlotto, assistant bar manager, The Voodoo Rooms – ‘With most vodkas you pay for the name and the packaging but with these vodkas there are genuine flavours to play with to be more creative in vodka cocktails.’

3 Fabio Santucci, bar manager, The Voodoo Rooms – ‘I find that our customers are really going for these artisan vodkas now. Russian Standard is a big call here and I think that’s because the advertising has introduced it to people who had never heard of it before.’

4 Jason Scott, owner and manager, Bramble – ‘At Bramble we only have two vodkas and Wyborowa Exquisite is one of them. People are more than happy to pay the extra when you explain why it is special. They like spirits with more character.’

5 James Tait from Tonic – ‘The trend in all spirits nowadays is towards more and more complex flavours. I’d say that our customers at Tonic definitely want to be able to taste something there in the glass when they’re paying premium prices.’

Stuart McCluskey, bartender and brand ambassador for Martin Miller’s Gin – ‘Bartenders get respect when they can talk about a spirit with credibility. Like whisky in Scotland or cognac in France, these vodkas have a certain mystique related to where they come from.’

.GROUP 1: RUSSIAN VODKAS

Ivan the Terrible Osobaya

A quadruple-distilled grain spirit in the distinctive Russian style.

Citrus and aniseed notes with hints of coriander and a spiciness derived perhaps from the infusions of wild buckwheat honey and cedar nuts.

RRP £35/70cl. Bibendum,0207 449 4099

Jewel of Russia

A wheat and rye grain spirit given a five-stage filtration through charcoal made from peach and apricot stones.

A very clean nose and a big, round body. Lush and creamy in the mouth, then hints of berry followed by a long minty finish. The best Russian vodka
for two of the judges.

RRP £59.99/70cl. Speciality Brands, 020 8838 9444

Russian Standard Platinum Vodka

A vodka made from winter wheat and distilled four times.

Nutty and smooth with hints of mint. A little one-dimensional in terms of flavour but its silky texture and long finish were particularly noted. Price-wise this vodka stood out for Carlotto.

RRP £14.49/70cl. First Drinks Brands, 02380 312 000

Stolichnaya Red

Double-distilled from winter wheat and glacial water then filtered three times through charcoal.

Doughy with soft marshmallow notes and pleasantly viscous texture, and a not unpleasant alcoholic burn. Less complex than other vodkas in this group but with a classic Russian-style oiliness. Competed well against vodkas carrying three times its price tag.

RRP £13.99/70cl. Pernod Ricard, 0800 376 5550

Stolichnaya Elit

Deluxe version of Stoli made through a unique ‘freezing’ filtration process that removes all impurities.

Another very close contender for the title ‘Best in Group’. Strong and spirity on the nose with an attractive citrus character which developed when water was added. Sweet and full in the mouth.

RRP £39.99/70cl. Pernod Ricard, 0800 376 5550

.GROUP 2: POLISH VODKAS

Belvedere

A vodka made from Dankowskie Gold rye and distilled four times.

On tasting, the raw material was instantly identified through its flavours of aniseed and caraway with a lingering nuttiness derived from rye. ‘I like the smooth, dry finish,’ said Aikman.

RRP £25.99/70cl. MHUK, 020 7245 4243

Chopin

Poland’s only luxury potato vodka.

More subdued in character with a subtle sweetness and a touch of spiciness. The raw material was identified by everyone thanks to a creamy mouthfeel with a residual fruitiness.

RRP £32/70cl. Amathus Wines, 020 8808 4181

Luksusowa

Made from potatoes grown along the Baltic Sea coast.

A vegetal nose made an instant impression followed by hints of green apple with a subtle spiciness. Slightly oily texture. Excellent value for money was the general verdict.

RRP £13.99. Marblehead, 0141 955 9091

Snow Leopard

Made from spelt grain and distilled four times.

The lightest and most neutral of all the vodkas tasted. Little flavour, but on the positive side there was virtually no harshness or burn. ‘It defines clean,’ said McCluskey.

RRP £30/70cl. Coe Vintners, 020 8551 4966

U’luvka

Made from Polish rye, wheat and barley, then distilled three times.

Gentle on the nose, soft and grainy on the palate with a burst of citrus followed by sharp spice. Quality of texture much commented on.

RRP £41.50/70cl. The Brand Distiller, 020 7602 7788

Ultimat

The only vodka we tasted to be made from all three main raw materials – potato, wheat and rye.

Strongly spirity on the nose with a fruity sweetness evident followed by a full, rounded finish. For Santucci this was the stand-out brand thanks to its flavour, while others were more impressed by the shock-and-awe packaging of this ultra premium vodka.

RRP £65/70cl. Amathus Wines, 020 8808 4181

Wyborowa Exquisite

Made from a single variety of premium rye, grown on an estate near Poznan in western Poland.

Lots of flavours identified, ranging from black plastic bags and wet straw to freshly baked biscuits and orange squash. Easily the most complex and characterful vodka we tasted balanced by a superb texture and a soft long finish, hence the ultimate accolade.

RRP £29.99/70cl. Pernod Ricard, 0800 376 5550

.GROUP 3: OTHER COUNTRIES

CROATIA

Akvinta

Distilled from Italian wheat then filtered through a mix of charcoal, marble, silver, gold and platinum.

Vegetal on the nose opening up to orange peel and candied fruits with a hint of green pepper. This
vodka was controversial, sharply dividing the panel into those who loved it and those who just couldn’t get past the initial medicinal taste of the spirit.

RRP £29.99/70cl. International Brands Ltd, 020 8683 4565

BULGARIA

Balkan 176

Triple-distilled grain vodka at a very high strength of 88% abv.

Strong and medicinal on the nose, developing nicely into a complex sweetness with liquorice notes. The high strength was very evident. ‘Ouch!’ was Tait’s verdict.

RRP £60/1litre. Wine and Spirit International Ltd, 020 8975 1023

BELARUS

Etalon

Rye and winter wheat grain spirit distilled four times.

Clean and fresh on the nose. Character builds slowly in the mouth with hints of green apple and anise.

£25.99/70cl. Real Vodka Company, 01689 800804

KAZAKHSTAN

Snow Queen

Made using organic wheat from the Kazakhstan steppes
and distilled five times.

Grassy and fresh aromas on the nose which build into a tangy fruitiness in the mouth. The panel liked its smooth finish and silky texture.

RRP £26.95/70cl. McKinley Vintners, 020 7928 7300

Many thanks to the Voodoo Rooms, Edinburgh, for hosting the tasting.

Editorial feature from Imbibe Magazine - March / April 2008