Welcome to Cabernet Country

Welcome to Cabernet Country

The Maipo Valley is Chile’s most historical wine region – and the home to the silky, elegant Cabernets that, for many, define the very essence of the country

Maipo is probably Chile’s best-known and certainly its oldest wine-growing area. It was about half a day’s horse-and-buggy ride south-east of the centre of Santiago when vines were first planted there 150 years ago. However, now the sprawling capital butts right up against the vineyards, which run in an oblong block from east to west.

Many of the earliest estates of the wealthy industrialists were planted in Maipo and they escaped here for a little R and R at the weekends, away from the heat of the city.

Maipo’s Mediterranean climate, with a rain-free summer from September to April, is spectacularly good for red grapes, particularly Cabernet Sauvignon, which revels in the long, stress-free ripening period. Handy, since Cabernet and Merlot were what the rich Chileans – keen to imitate their heroes in Bordeaux – were mostly planting.

Maipo’s not all about heat and sun, though. There are two other key factors. First, much of the soil is alluvial: well-drained and pebbly, with absolutely no organic matter at all. This is particularly true in the sought-after Maipo Alto region in the foothills that lead, eventually, to the Andes. Did anyone say the word ‘Graves’?

Second, with land sloping away from the coast towards the looming majesty of the Andes, these eastern vineyards are high. Alto Jahuel is at 1,800ft, Pirque, 500ft higher than that. This altitude has an effect on the vineyards. And though a summer’s day in Maipo will get up to 29°C, temperatures tumble to just 10° at night.

Put all of this together and you end up with conditions for Cabernet that could hardly be bettered. Unsusprisingly, about 80% of the grapes in Maipo are Cabernet Sauvignon, and, equally unsurprisingly, Maipo Cab has become a must-have for sensible wine lists, from wine bar up to Michelin-star level.

My Chile...

Alvaro Marcos Garcia, Theo Randall

‘I liked the fact that Chile’s wines were not like the other wines around the world; they were polished, but there was still an identity there. The Cabernets and Merlots were good – especially those from Maipo and Aconcagua. There was alcohol there, but it was always in balance. I thought Riesling would be bigger here – there’s obviously potential for it in the coastal areas. After this trip I realised I could be doing more than I am, especially at the upper end. It would be good if there were one Chilean specialist merchant who could represent more wineries…’

Alvaro’s top three wines:

• Eduardo Chadwick Seña 2004, Aconcagua, Hatch Mansfield

• Matetic EQ Syrah 2006, San Antonio, Genesis Wines

• Casa Marin Cipreses Sauvignon Blanc 2008, Aconcagua, Boutinot

Olivier Marie, Le Coq d’Argent

‘Chile is a land of contrasts. I was blown away by the changes from one region to the other, often in quite a short distance.

It’s all about diversity, and the wines showed that – there were good differences of character. Take Elqui and Limarí – they’re completely different. I really liked the Maipo Cabernet Sauvignons – I thought they had a real typicity with that minty character, and the best ones will age, too. There were a lot of wines here that I would list.’

Olivier’s top three wines:

• Casa Marin Miramar Vineyard Syrah 2006, San Antonio, Boutinot

• Mont Gras Antu Ninquen 2006, Colchagua, Enotria Winecellars

• Sol de Sol Chardonnay 2006, Malleco Valley, Fidelis Wines

Sommeliers on… Cabernet Sauvignon

Nicolas Angelina, Noura

‘The diversity in terms of style was really amazing. It’s stimulating to see Cabernet Sauvignon blended with the likes of Petit Verdot and Syrah – it allows different types of food matching. One of the advantages is that many of these Cabernets are available at a good price to restaurants, but we’ll still be able to sell them at a good mark-up because the wines are worth it. They’re so well balanced I would see them more as an alternative to cru classé Bordeaux than entry-level wines.’

Nicolas’ favourite Cabernet: Viña von Siebenthal Montelig 2005, Aconcagua, New Generation Wines

Nigel Lister, Asia de Cuba

‘Our line-up of Cabernets was my first chance to really get my head round Chilean terroir. It was very clear when you got an Aconcagua or a Maipo. I had been worried about the tannins, but actually the tannin management was exemplary. There was a softness, even a winsome gentleness that I really liked, and in terms of value for money they were amazing at every level. A few of them even had a real graphite Médoc/St Julien nose, with lovely grainy tannins.’

Nigel’s favourite Cabernet: Carmen Winemaker’s Reserve 2003, Maipo, Stevens Garnier

Mastering Maipo

• Maipo is the appellation closest to the capital, Santiago. It has 10,500ha under vine.

• Summers (from September to April) are long and dry. Winters are cold and wet.

• Maipo is (unofficially) split into three areas: Maipo Alto (near the mountains), Maipo Medio (in the centre) and Maipo Bajo to the west.

• Maipo Alto (or ‘upper Maipo’) is recognised as one of Chile’s best Cabernet areas. It comprises about 20% of the total Maipo vineyard area, and breaks down further into four sub-regions: Peñalolén, Puente Alto, Pirque and Alto Jahuel.

Editorial feature from Imbibe Magazine - January / February 2009